king pins
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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king pins
how much of a pain is it to change them, what tools will i need, thanks alot, lee 1981 f100. should i switch over to ball joints, if so can i keep my current brakes,I have the small bolt pattern wheels, do not want to change size
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 66
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From: MN.
I have an 81 f100 myself, I replaced my king pins last year April 2004, had a number of responses do a search down on inline six..
cost to buy king pin kit about $50. @ NAPA buy the metal bushings..the kit has everything you need...
you'll need to have Auto Machine shop ream and fit your new bushings in the spindles $ 25-50 bucks, you'll need a front-end alignment when the new pins are in place...
I had to heat my spindles to drive them out the pins..didn't want to but...
remove one of the old grease caps , remove the grease sert and drill a hole big enough for your punch, this makes a great guide and will protect the threads while you hammer out the pins..
these are some instructions from the guys at inline six:
To remove the king pins requires a hefty hammer, punches
besides what ever wrenches it may require and perhaps heat.
Jack up the front end and put stands under the axle as close to the end as you can.
You have to remove the caliper,and it's support, tie the caliper out of the way don't let it hang on the brake line. Take the rotor off, and clean up the spindle and axle end with a scraper. Now remove the nut on the draw key which goes thru the center of the axle eye and drive it out. Remove the o rings or steel plugs from the king pin which ever the case may be. Now try to drive the pin out of the axle eye. It takes some very hard blows.
If it does not move I hit the side of the axle eye and that usually helps, some insist ( hold a large hammer on one side hit the other side)
you have to heat the axle eye. Except for very stubborn cases I won't do that, because I don't like the thought of changing the heat treatment of the axle eye.
That was removal. Installation is reverse after you install the new bushings,(remember to align the grease holes in the bushing and have them reamed or honed). grease the thrust bearing and use the shims in the kit to take up the up and down movement.
They go above the axle eye the bearing below. Install the new key (remember to keep the slot in the pin in line with the hole bored for the key. One more thing after you remove the pin and clean the axle eye take a new pin push it thru and grasp it top and bottom make sure it isn't loose in the bore. If it is you will need to have the eye sleeved. Finally wear safety glasses,the pins are hard, a missed blow can send out flying pieces.
cost to buy king pin kit about $50. @ NAPA buy the metal bushings..the kit has everything you need...
you'll need to have Auto Machine shop ream and fit your new bushings in the spindles $ 25-50 bucks, you'll need a front-end alignment when the new pins are in place...
I had to heat my spindles to drive them out the pins..didn't want to but...
remove one of the old grease caps , remove the grease sert and drill a hole big enough for your punch, this makes a great guide and will protect the threads while you hammer out the pins..
these are some instructions from the guys at inline six:
To remove the king pins requires a hefty hammer, punches
besides what ever wrenches it may require and perhaps heat.
Jack up the front end and put stands under the axle as close to the end as you can.
You have to remove the caliper,and it's support, tie the caliper out of the way don't let it hang on the brake line. Take the rotor off, and clean up the spindle and axle end with a scraper. Now remove the nut on the draw key which goes thru the center of the axle eye and drive it out. Remove the o rings or steel plugs from the king pin which ever the case may be. Now try to drive the pin out of the axle eye. It takes some very hard blows.
If it does not move I hit the side of the axle eye and that usually helps, some insist ( hold a large hammer on one side hit the other side)
you have to heat the axle eye. Except for very stubborn cases I won't do that, because I don't like the thought of changing the heat treatment of the axle eye.
That was removal. Installation is reverse after you install the new bushings,(remember to align the grease holes in the bushing and have them reamed or honed). grease the thrust bearing and use the shims in the kit to take up the up and down movement.
They go above the axle eye the bearing below. Install the new key (remember to keep the slot in the pin in line with the hole bored for the key. One more thing after you remove the pin and clean the axle eye take a new pin push it thru and grasp it top and bottom make sure it isn't loose in the bore. If it is you will need to have the eye sleeved. Finally wear safety glasses,the pins are hard, a missed blow can send out flying pieces.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Park, Texas
You will have to buy lowered I-Beams or take to a shop that is equiped to bend them. Not a hard project but will cost some bucks.
Good reports on this system.
http://www.djmsuspension.com/Product...0F150Parts.htm
Good reports on this system.
http://www.djmsuspension.com/Product...0F150Parts.htm
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: MN.
Here's one at eBay --1981 f100 low rider starting bid $500. maybe he's got what you want for parts and you'll have a spare truck for parts or rebuild..
2 days 10hrs. left to bid..
link didn't work, check-out ebay motors f100..
2 days 10hrs. left to bid..
link didn't work, check-out ebay motors f100..
Last edited by srod; Mar 17, 2006 at 07:54 AM.
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