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I haven't touched a u-joint in 20 years and it shows. I tried removing one off the end of my split shaft drive train from a '79 F-250 camper special. I used a cold chisel to cut the grease cup and a socket to pound the joint to one side. It wasn't easy, but finally came apart.
Just wanted to know what the proper method for this is in case someone asks, cause I'm sure I went about it all wrong.
BTW, the middle joint is missing a grease fitting but opposing turns on the two shafts doesn't reveal play, if that's the test.
The recommended method is sockets and a big hammer. Even the Haynes manual suggests removing the u-joints just the way you did it. You can use a shop press if you have one (most people don't) or a shop vise though most vices still won't budge the caps.
I found a small pitman arm puller at Checker, (not the fork kind, but the kind that kinda looks like a pully puller, sort of...) Anyway, it works really well on u-joints. I just stick a socket in to give it greater travel distance, get out the impact wrench, and its off in seconds! It's a cheap alternative to the official tool.
i just set the tube against samoeting hard- like a vise, a rock or a curb in the parking lot at the mall- and whack the cross legs with a BFH.. one side pops out then flip it over and repeat... don't ask how i learned that the curb works well....
i wanted to be in my shop the worst way... since i did it trying to impress some of the fairer sex.... sure is hard to be cool when your rear driveline is sitting on the ground...
I use a ball joint remover (clamp) and adapters, sometimes impact sockets, with an impact wrench. On UJs that are really stuck and the shaft wimpy (Dana 28) I put an impact socket between the ears so they do not bend, I hate when that happens
Lol again. Guys, I posted another thread for installing the joints, but after rereading posts, especially yours rebocardo, i more convinced that my problem is the ears on my shaft's knuckle are pinched. Appreciate if you'd look at that cause I posted it separately.