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The type of fluid you run don't matter to the ram or steering box, only thing that it matters to is the pump for example, on the farm we have the combine and our two big tractors all use hydraulic oil, our big heston 8100 swather uses 10w-30 for the hydrualics (rams and orbit motors), and our bin sweeps and 2 smaller tractors use the dextron 3 type oil. I think that you'd be able to use a thinner hydraulic oil, something about half way between dextron 3 and the typical hydro-fluid weight.
hey chris, i talked to one of my buddies in NC last night and i ask hiom this same question and he said he runs SAE30 non-detergent motor oil! he said he truied everything and the non-deteregent oil wont foam. makes sense to me!
the only thing i'd worry about is all the seals, i wonder what the seals like the best
i ran hydraulic fluid like you get at the tractor places with no ill effects in my system, then again i did get to wuite test out my setup long term
never had a foam/thinnin problem
-cutts-
Hes got the idea. You dont want true hydro fluid you will smoke that pump that stuff needs a strong pump to get moving when tis cool. enless you get a warmer for it like in CATS or New Hollands. Just get the stuff they use in tractors and such still has lubing agent and yet its not heat treated so its not as thick. It smells pretty bad over Heavy hydro fluid. As for why it foams is the resovar is too small. Its like in a blender where you turn it on and it makes it spin and you can see the blade, same concept. I doubt its going to hurt anything just its going to hurt performance. If you could make a "taller" or bigger resovior for it. It should make that go away.
Its a 1.5x8 ram, and my cooler was below the level of the pump, although not by much. Placing it above the pump will cause the problems Ko already mentioned. My next cooler I'm placing way below the level of the pump, to see if that helps. I've thought about using normal hydraulic fluid but haven't experimented because I'd like to find a surefire fix rather than blowing my seals. Keep updating this thread with the findings of whatever you guys experiment with...
I'm runnign type F in mine right now with no I'll effects, but to be honest I wouldn't be able to hear the pump whining anyway,
(edit)
Cavitation can come from the pump trying to pull the fluid in, except it does not go in, ie high reving, or cold oil, the oil will not flow into the pump fast enough, there for creating a void, I know that may be confusing, in short my thought is heavier (thicker) oil will not fix the problem, most synthetics are thinner and might be why you are not having a problem since you have switched,
Just a thought,
Last edited by Skipped_link; Mar 18, 2006 at 02:41 PM.
No that makes perfect sense... It similar to the cavitation in IDI's that I recently had to deal with. Escept in the diesels its the cylinder walls expanding after combustion then rapidly snapping back into place. The radiator fluid cannot snap back as quickly, and the result is a very forceful crash or collision. That erodes the walls away from the outside in... but in the PS pumps its interior errosion from lack of lubrication on the metal to metal parts (cylinder to piston contact).
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