What a wasted day!
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
What a wasted day!
Not really, but I was attempting most of the day to install the weatherstripping on my doors of the 56. I used masking tape to stick the stripping on (bigwin56 gave the great advice, thanks). Before applying the adhesive, I tried to close the doors and they won't come close. It looks like the weatherstripping on the front portion of the door won't collapse enough for the door to close at the rear. Messing around back and forth, I finally gave up. Never got the weatherstripping on. Actually thought I'd cut the front portion off and glue the rest of it on. Got pretty tense there for a while. Don't know what to do at this point. Any suggestions?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Panama City, Fl
If the doors are not adjusted properly, the weatherstripping will do just what you had happen. Same problem on my '66 Mustang. Had to re-adjust the doors to allow room for the thickness of the weathwerstripping. Also, remember, the weatherstripping should fit tight at first, and then loosen up a bit as it conforms to the shape.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,148
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From: Seneca, SC
I feel ya man, check out my thread entitled worst tune up ever. But as for your weather stripping:
Do the doors shut flush with the stripping off? If so then the stripping's just being a pain in the butt. If not then you could space the door back a bit and try that. I remember that after I did weatherstripping on my beater that the doors were pretty hard to shut, but after a while it loosened up. How bad is it binding, and by that I mean how close to closed can you get? Is it a couple inches, or not even halfway? If it's a couple of inches then glue it on and shut the doors a little harder at first, it'll loosen up. Steel beats rubber everytime.
Do the doors shut flush with the stripping off? If so then the stripping's just being a pain in the butt. If not then you could space the door back a bit and try that. I remember that after I did weatherstripping on my beater that the doors were pretty hard to shut, but after a while it loosened up. How bad is it binding, and by that I mean how close to closed can you get? Is it a couple inches, or not even halfway? If it's a couple of inches then glue it on and shut the doors a little harder at first, it'll loosen up. Steel beats rubber everytime.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Thanks for the comments guys, my doors are perfectly flush with the body all the way around the door. (without weatherstripping). With the stripping, the door will close within 1/2 inch. Even if I slam the door or push against it, (even loosened the door slider), the door wouldn't close. If I adjust the door for the weatherstripping, my doors won't be flush with the body? Correct? Is it a good idea to cut stripping off from the front portion of the door, where nobody can see it? Has anyone done anything similar?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 5
From: Meade, KS
I had the same problem with my weatherstripping. The door didn't want to close with it on there, but it leaked air without it. Instead of shaving the stripping down, I adjusted the door catch out and shut the doors like they belong to the truck that it is (shut 'em hard). After about two weeks or a month they shut fine and I even adjusted the door catch back in a bit.
I suppose, you could shave the rubber off of the front, if you just can't get 'em closed with it on there. Just be careful not to shave too much--then air and noise will leak, and you'll have wasted your money.
I suppose, you could shave the rubber off of the front, if you just can't get 'em closed with it on there. Just be careful not to shave too much--then air and noise will leak, and you'll have wasted your money.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: La Verne, California
Originally Posted by imlowr2
Thanks for the comments guys, my doors are perfectly flush with the body all the way around the door. (without weatherstripping). With the stripping, the door will close within 1/2 inch. Even if I slam the door or push against it, (even loosened the door slider), the door wouldn't close. If I adjust the door for the weatherstripping, my doors won't be flush with the body? Correct? Is it a good idea to cut stripping off from the front portion of the door, where nobody can see it? Has anyone done anything similar?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Door seals
I think that the darn doors gave me more trouble than anything on my restoration. Had both doors off during the restoration and when I tried reinstalling with new seals I had the same problem. Wound up repining a couple of the hinges, replaced one, and just had a devil of a time . Finally got them adjusted and just used them . They now work fine. Luck. Roy (aka homey).
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Kansas City area
imlowr2-
Did you end up using the OEM style weatherstrip or the aftermarket ones from Pep
Boys? On my current project I'm definitely going with a soft aftermarket seal from Soffseal or another vendor. The OEM is a real pain.
Did you end up using the OEM style weatherstrip or the aftermarket ones from Pep
Boys? On my current project I'm definitely going with a soft aftermarket seal from Soffseal or another vendor. The OEM is a real pain.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 863
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From: Grain Valley Mo.
After reading about these seal problems, I ordered the smaller size (less thick) from Mid-Fifties. After a frustrating couple of hours, they ended up in the trash can. I called MF and she said the seals were exact repro's. I explained that they did fit perfectly, but they were way to dense, that they would'nt compress. She said they had never heard of this problem before and I was the first to complain. Those two Tootsie Rolls were about $50 each!!!!
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Jag
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Riverside CA..
Originally Posted by xfordman
After reading about these seal problems, I ordered the smaller size (less thick) from Mid-Fifties. After a frustrating couple of hours, they ended up in the trash can. I called MF and she said the seals were exact repro's. I explained that they did fit perfectly, but they were way to dense, that they would'nt compress. She said they had never heard of this problem before and I was the first to complain. Those two Tootsie Rolls were about $50 each!!!!
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I pulled them off because they were too dense, and replaced them with "regular" from mid-fifty.
Doors close fine.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 895
Likes: 1
From: OK
When I put new weatherstripping on my 48, the doors wouldn't shut all the way. I trimmed a little bit of the weatherstripping around the front of the door and the hinges and got the doors to shut. I left them shut for the weekend and they now open and shut properly. Good luck.
hotrod48
hotrod48
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: La Verne, California
Mine are slowly compressing w/o trimming.
The Passenger door, which I did some months ago w/o taking it off, I had an issue w/ the glue not sticking because I didn't get enough on in a small section between the hinges, closes just fine now.
Just did the Drivers door a week ago & took the door off this time w/o any problems w/ applying the glue, though it was a tick of a pain in the **** to get it back on as I had to get the wife & cousin to assist in remounting the door, bleedin' heavy & it's compressing just fine.
The Passenger door, which I did some months ago w/o taking it off, I had an issue w/ the glue not sticking because I didn't get enough on in a small section between the hinges, closes just fine now.
Just did the Drivers door a week ago & took the door off this time w/o any problems w/ applying the glue, though it was a tick of a pain in the **** to get it back on as I had to get the wife & cousin to assist in remounting the door, bleedin' heavy & it's compressing just fine.