my x does it to have not had time to check it out! okay how can lower ball joint affect it! it would have to be about to fall out to affect it! explain!

 

hard the same problem on my 2000 x and replaced both calipers and it stops great now. got the calipers for $71 each at napa auto

 

I had the same problem, replaced the front calipers and still had the problem. I eventually replaced the brake pads and this fixed it. The pads seem to glaze really quick on the Ex.

 

I'll bet you $531 it was the ball joints.

My (super duty) pulled to the left while braking. I did have warped rotors anyways so I did new rotors and pads. Stilled pulled to the left. Braught to my mechanic and yup, upper and lower ball joints were shot. Truck has 57K on it and ball joints are shot. Cost $531 for parts labor and alignment.

Go to a ford dealer and it will cost over a GRAND.

 

Get this folks- My wife just drove the x to visit me out of town, about 200 miles. During the trip the pull switched from the left to the right, then not at all, and now there is a vibration upon brake application (like a warped rotor). I am driving it now and it will sometimes pull a little to the right, and sometimes not, but the vibration is still there, maybe slowly getting worse, but pull to left is gone. Really puzzled now, but I am contemplating just beginning to fix the problem by replacing both flex hoses, then on to calipers, etc., etc. I really think the ball joints are fine. I checked the play in them while the vehicle was on jack stands two weeks ago. What do y'all think- ever heard em or had em do this??

 

Mine has done it since it was new. I don't think the lower ball joint is the problem, but my ears are wide open at this time especially since the dealer can't figure it out.

 

explain please

 

Stating what my symptom and problem was. Then stated how much it cost my local mechanic to fix it and how much the Ford dealer quoted me over the phone.

 

finally got some time to look at my ex found righthand caliper floating pins frozen in caliper bracket. able to get bottom one out with some effort and wd40 the top would not budge. call oreilly to get a caliper pin kit before things got ugly! had to use a air hammer and dull chisel bit to get it out! i found a 3/4 bore brush and cleaned pin bores and flushed debris out with brakekleen then lubeed pins with high temp grease and reassembled. it did the left side and both calipers while i was at it.
while doing the right front i noticed a clicking sound coming from the hub my x is a 4x4 sounds like a bearing coming apart. call oreilly new hub $300 bucks is this hub serviceable or rebuildable before it emplodes big time?

 

i have the same thing. it pulls left. i have talked to countless others who own excursions and all report the same thing. pulling to the left. just thought i would let you know so that you dont think you are the only one out there. and if you find a cure, please let us all know.
clarence

 

Maybe it's the power of suggestion, but I was on Hwy 80 today between Sacramento and San Francisco going with the traffic at about 80-85mph (indicated, about 75-80 on the GPS) and we had a "brake check" (panic braking down to nearly stopped) several times as the traffic started to congest. By the third or fourth hard stop, the pedal had a slight shudder, the steering wheel was shaking the whole dash up and down and the X tended to pull (either way, but never straight) so I have to wonder if the thing just has a bad design at some level in the system. If I went to big brakes, I'd replace everything (master, slave, valves) not just the calipers and rotors. I don't think it's the ABS because it wasn't activating. After all, the X is based on a twenty or thirty year old truck and some of the components are prehistoric. No wonder, I guess.

 

Well everyone! The fix was so simple I am ashamed to say it!!! I replaced the front calipers and rotors and the X stops beautifully! No pulling or vibration at all!
Just wanted to post the fix to all who have or will experience this!
Chandler

 

New calipers and rotors? Factory or aftermarket? Price?
I guess new pads too. How many miles on the X? Towing?
I guess winning the bet on the ball-joints will help pay for the new brake hardware ... : )
I think I'll just upgrade now since I'm going to 35's and I'm towing.
I'd like to add an exhaust brake for the mountain highways but it's expensive!
(Anyone found a good price on an effective exhaust brake?)

 

Hello, I had this problem as well on a 2000 4X4 V-10 I've ownd since day one. I had the problem of the corroded slides and I fixed that, turned rotors and repleced pads on the first brake change. It fixed pulling to the left problem. BUT the problem always returns within 3 to 6 months. Sometimes it goes away on its own but after 120,000 miles and several pad changes and rotors turned I've notice that this problem begins occurring most often when the pads become about 1/2 worn and worsens from them on. My guess lately has been that my caliper cyclinder may have a rough spot in it and when the pad wears down enough that that part of the cyclinder gets utilized, problems begin. I've turned rotors when pads were half worn or less and had the problem return shortly after. Change the pads and no problem for a while. I get the highest grade pad from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty (I think they've gone to 3 years now) so the replacements haven't cost me and they don't seem to mind me exchanging them when not completely worn. I thought about changing out both front calipers next time the problem surfaced. New fluid and soft lines while I'm at it as well. I'm curious as to what you find before I take another shot at the problem. Thanks.....TIM

 

Got aftermarket parts from NAPA. Pads- $78, Rotors- $57 each. X has 139,000 miles. I believe this heavy a** vehicle with the extra weight of the big motor on the front end is just inherently hard on front brakes. I wouldn't be surprised if the problem comes back again in time. I'm just happy I know how to fix it now.