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Ever rebuild a manual transmission or older transfercase (205/203)? THERE is a PITA.
Most use hundreds of thousands (slight exaggeration) of stupid tiny needle bearings that fall out all over the place and have to be glued in place with vaseline or transgoo before you can go back together.
Cody
I'm with you Cody. I would rather do an auto over a stick tranny any day.
Pop
If you've done stick trans, a automatic would be a cake walk for you. If you have a road map(manual) it makes it easier, if not just keep all the clutchs and steels in order, no sweat.
Craven
Thanks for the... uhhh.... encouragement! I guess it's just the ol' fear of the unknown talking.
Actually, I'm hoping to not have to do that job to mine at all! But, of course, ya' never know.....
And yes, I would get a GOOD rebuild manual. Something I should actually do in advance of the need. I know some are lots better than others for a neophyte.
Thanks for the... uhhh.... encouragement! I guess it's just the ol' fear of the unknown talking.
Actually, I'm hoping to not have to do that job to mine at all! But, of course, ya' never know.....
And yes, I would get a GOOD rebuild manual. Something I should actually do in advance of the need. I know some are lots better than others for a neophyte.
Alright, so I have a little problem, at least right now it is little. Here goes, when tranny is cold like on first start up of the day, it goes in reverse just fine with out any problems or abnormalities. When I go to D, 2, or 1, it is lugging the engine way down. It almost seems like it is trying to lock the T/C from the get go. It only does this for the first couple 100 feet when cold. Once warmed up a little, no problems idles right at 680 when in any gear positions holding brake down. I am going to disconnect batteries to reset PCM, don't think has anything to do with it though. I am going to call the shop I got the kit from today and find out if they have seen this before and what to do to fix it. I just hope I don't have to pull the tranny out again, but something tells me one of the T/C valve in the front pump assy is sticking when cold and trying to lock the T/C. Anyone else have any ideas?
Alright, so I have a little problem, at least right now it is little. Here goes, when tranny is cold like on first start up of the day, it goes in reverse just fine with out any problems or abnormalities. When I go to D, 2, or 1, it is lugging the engine way down. It almost seems like it is trying to lock the T/C from the get go. It only does this for the first couple 100 feet when cold. Once warmed up a little, no problems idles right at 680 when in any gear positions holding brake down. I am going to disconnect batteries to reset PCM, don't think has anything to do with it though. I am going to call the shop I got the kit from today and find out if they have seen this before and what to do to fix it. I just hope I don't have to pull the tranny out again, but something tells me one of the T/C valve in the front pump assy is sticking when cold and trying to lock the T/C. Anyone else have any ideas?
i think that the oil is very cold, and the thicker oil has a stronger pressure on the clutches in the TC. plus the triple discs want to grab and transfer power to the ground. what i would do, is start it up and let it idle for a few seconds, and go through the gears (P-R-N-D) stopping at each one for a few seconds to help heat the fluid up a bit. experiment with some stuff and come back with results.
But you said manuals (s). I only have one. The one for the 4R100.
Is this the one?
Pop
That one is probably the same as the two I got, the one I got was for E40D, and then a 2nd for all the revisions that took place. Having the 4R100 would probably be even easier to follow as the Updates are in going to be inline with text.
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
i think that the oil is very cold, and the thicker oil has a stronger pressure on the clutches in the TC. plus the triple discs want to grab and transfer power to the ground. what i would do, is start it up and let it idle for a few seconds, and go through the gears (P-R-N-D) stopping at each one for a few seconds to help heat the fluid up a bit. experiment with some stuff and come back with results.
I agree on the fluid being colder, but we are talking like dumping the clutch on a manual and all but killing it, and it doesn't lug it down when going in R, behaves like normal.
Today had frost on windshield when leaving work. Let it idle for about 10 minutes to warm up(hate scraping windows) and defrost the windshield. Decided to put in D before backing out of the parking space, no lugging down occured. So two things differ from the previous. One extended idle before moving, and Two selected D first then R to back out of spot, then back to D. Will experiment this afternoon when I wake up, will try D right after start up to see if it lugs down or not. Still need to talk to the tranny shop yet. Working nights puts a cramp on about everything.
Well, tranny is done, spent another 7 hrs today on it, was going to upload some pics, but now the camera battery is dead. Overall, I'd say pretty fair as far as difficulty, one of those if you buy the $200 specialty tool, it would make it a very simple task. I am going to put it back in the truck next Monday. Pretty confident everything is back together correctly, keep the fingers crossed and wait til Monday. The rebuild kit I got was from txchange.com out of Portland, OR. All clutches steels, seals, and T/C for @1100. Only bummer part about this whole deal. Judging by the internals, I think mine was already rebuilt once. The clutches looked to be in great shape. Had I known that, I would of just changed the T/C as it was junk, but without tearing it apart, no way of telling. But, I know for sure now it is good to go.
Is the special $200 tool the pump puller? I used 2 2 inch exhaust clamps without the u bolts and bolted them together around the shaft in the groove and a pully puller. It worked great and it was very cheap.
No, don't know what the exact cost of it would have been, but it is used to compress some of the spring flanges inside to remove a snap ring. Was easy to remove, not so easy to put back in. having the tool probably would have made it a very easy task. Imagine that right tool for the right job.
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