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Hello. The check engine light came on in my wifes 96 3.0 aerostar. They ran the code at Advance auto parts and it came up cam position sensor fault. I went for a second opinion at a local garage and they said the same thing. Advance said all I needed was the sensor and they had it for $30 bucks. The garage said I needed the sensor and the piece that it sets on and that they were ford oem parts. The parts are going to cost $230 plus labor!! Has anybody else been thru this? I was going to attempt to change the sensor myself, but I want to make sure it's right as this is my wifes primary mode of transportation. Any and all advice is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
Fred.
Being the sponsor for this part of the forum, i will throw in my 2 cent.
I sell the Ford OEM part for $43.56.
I would not install anything from autozone on my wifes car. Women do not like to be stranded on the side of the road.
The garage more then likely quoted you for the synchronizer assy also, It's the distributor looking shaft part the sensor mounts on. They crack at the housing and the gear, sell quite a few. They've(garage) seen to many of them and are covering there butts. hence the price diff.
I had to remove the drive unit on a 97 tarus 3.0 and just put it back in like it came out with no problem.problem was the dang thing cost me about 140 bucks and NO autozone didnt carry it,,,,,,,It was a dealer only item
I was told by a mechanic today, (who took my money for the job), that the synchronizer gear and sensor could be set electronically. Is this possible, or did he lie through his teeth?
From what I have read on this, Ford service techs have an analizer with an oscilloscope function which can be setup to plot on both the cam sensor data & also crankshaft position. With the overlay from both screens , the relative camshaft sensor function of fuel injector timing can be determined. This should be more accurate than using the above timing tool, since the test is dynamic & accounts for any backlash or erronous settings of the crankshaft & synchroniser drive etc.
Regards, Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; Dec 28, 2006 at 07:36 PM.
Reason: addition to text
I used to replace CMP at 3.0 Rager..... I just marked the position of CMP with paint, puted the new CMP in the same position and installed...I saw the marks to be moved for 3-5 dgr and I corrected its position, unscrewing the bolt (3) and rotatiom CMP body. That is all. 1/2 hour work. That is all.
CMP is just a Hall effect sensor, but there is only 1 puls in TDC #1.
hi i know this is a old post but im doing this project i tried to install the new sensor with the syncro gear parallel with the cam and it turns the wrong way do i need to install at 75 degrees or what.
btw my vehicle is a 97 mercury mountaineer 5.0 i will have pics soon.
any help would be great
hi i know this is a old post but im doing this project i tried to install the new sensor with the syncro gear parallel with the cam and it turns the wrong way do i need to install at 75 degrees or what.
btw my vehicle is a 97 mercury mountaineer 5.0 i will have pics soon.
any help would be great
I cant see how it turns the wrong way, you mean it's out of synch?
You need to turn the engine to No1 piston at TDC on the power stroke. Also need the correct angular setting for the engine (it varies by CC's), engage the synchro housing at this angle & carefully seat the housing, put a new 'o'seal if it's damaged. You may need the fixtureing tool to hold the synchro drive shaft in the correct position while you engage the helical gear, it's about 15 bucks or so if I remember rightly.
The other way is to rotate the engine to the sensor firing position (you have to find out what this is ) then rotate the synchro housing slowly until you get a deflection with the DMM attached to the magnet terminals on the cmp sensor.
ok i got it lined up the CEL stays off until i turn off the vehicle then the CEL comes back on again for camshaft position sensor ( i know that was the original coade befor i replaced the both peices) do i need to take truck to dealer and get them to re time the truck or something of that nature?i followd install directions from hays manuel and from what i seen here. any help would be great
ok i got it lined up the CEL stays off until i turn off the vehicle then the CEL comes back on again for camshaft position sensor ( i know that was the original coade befor i replaced the both peices) do i need to take truck to dealer and get them to re time the truck or something of that nature?i followd install directions from hays manuel and from what i seen here. any help would be great
Probably out of synch, the dealer should charge about an hour to re-time the synchroniser.
ok i think the problem is fixed i put my old CPS on just to see if the other that cam with the sinc. was bad and no CEL i restarted the truck about 10 time still no CEL i think the problem is solved ill let every one know tomarrow after i drive it to work......
thanks
Sorry for reviving this thread, but I'm trying to repair my parents 97 3.0 Aerostar, the magnet fell out of the sensor and completely ripped off the sheild/cup thing that goes past it, I don't even know how it was lined up inside, all know is the "hole plug" on the side of the synchronizer is lined up with the bolt that tightens it down to the engine. I got another synchronizer, sensor and alignment tool altogether, so are they any shortcuts I can take or am I stuck with having to rotate the engine to get Cylinder 1 to TDC? and taking those other 5 steps? Thanks for any help you can give me.