yea, that seems too weird, that the motor goes down easy everytime. it is going back up that it tells me there is a serious problem... all the eletrical dims in the truck(engine running) when turning the key or hitting the switch. the only way i have hgotten it to to up at all was slamming the tailgate shut. it seems like a ground but where is it? lastly, while holding the gate at 45degrees(open) and turning the key window switch, a swear, a saw sparks fly where the tailgate rod goes into the righthand side of the bronco!!!!!!!!!
any suggestions?

1996 xlt 351
skyler softtop
leather int.
156,000 miles and counting

 

the tailgate should only move when its closed.
There is an interlock on the drivers side tail gate latch. Try latching it manually (watch ya pinkies) and see if it operates when the window is horizontal (support the glass).

Also check the mechanisms are all lubricated - remove the tailgate 'hatch' on the inside and grease the slides and rack and pinions.

The ground is on the body of the truck (i.e. it returns through the loom) and is not terminated on the tailgate (AFAIK!).
There are separate circuits for the tailgate and cab switch - does it fail with both? If it works ok with the cab switch (like mine) then chances are its either a damaged loom between the body and tailgate or the microswitches in the tailgate key switch are broken. Unfortunatly you have to replace the whole loom if so ($145 from JBG) so time to get out your multimeter and start tracing wires.
Maybe you could disconnect the motor loom (in the centre of the tailgate between the glass and the upper side of the tailgate (when open) and check you get power to the socket when using both switches to determine whether it electircal or mechanical failure.

Its all pretty simple stuff in the tailgate so study the haynes wiring disgrams and have a rummage around inside it to check cables etc. I believe there is a inline plug/socket behind the drivers side rear lamp cluster which you could tap into to check power from the front of the truck and then check continuity across the motor.

If my motor was anything to go by, the armature was pretty gummed up and needed a good clean but you might prefer to replace it should you find it n/s. I like taking things apart so I cleaned it out, but thats just the engineer in me!

Good luck.


Simon

 

Yes......you should make full use of the search function. There is a boat load of info on this exact problem.

If I had to guess right now at what the cause of your problem with the rear glass is........I would be willing to bet a few bucks that its your torque pins (or whatever Ford or we call them) that have failed you. If this is indeed the case you will need to remove the window motor and replace them. They are those three little plastic dowel looking things.....use the search and you will find good write-ups with pictures showing exactly how to fix it.

 

yeah that makes sense too - replace them with M8 nuts!

 

If you saw sparks, and it is drawing that much as to really dim the lights and all....take off the inside panel, and check the wiring, the wire for the UP side is grounding out prolly inside the taligate since that is where it was sparking.

Once you get the wiring issue fixed, then start with the others.

 

I'm with Billybob on this one. Anything that causes the electrical system to fault as you described is most likely electrical in nature especially if you have actually witnessed sparks flyin'! Disconnect the battery BEFORE you go digging behind the inspection cover. You never know what may be wrong in there and you don't want to inadvertantly short something out and cause more problems.