does any body have any ideals on how to convert a 292 to a electronic ignition just to eliminate have to adjust the piont over and over as the time goes by and make it a little more reliable and i have acsese to a lot of ford parts from pretty much any year and how hard would it be to replace the generator with a distriboture hope you can answer some of my questions

 

In am going to a Pertronics Electronic set up on my 292. I use them in my 302 in my '66 Mustang, had them in my Dad's 72 F100 with a 302 also. About 65 - 85 at local stores. Replaces points and condensor and that is all. Never adjust. 10 min. install. Just stay away from the Pertronics II and the Flame Thrower II coil. I have read of many failures with the II.

 

Well,here we go with the old conflicting info,again.Ive had the Pertronix II/Pertronix Flamethrower coil setup in my truck for several years now,with nary a problem.For peace of mind,though,I carry a brand new spare with me when I go very far.What IS the concensus on which is better-I or II?Steve

 

thanks switching out the piont and condeser sounds pretty easy any ideals on switching out the generator for an alternator

 

ibuzzard: Not saying all are bad. Just info I have gathered seems to show more people have problems with the II. I have never used a II, but I know the I's I have are great. I find the same results from the Mustang board I hang out on. I say go with what works for you and recommend what you feel comfortable with.

 

What do you guys think of this one. I am about to buy one. Is it a good deal or should I just buy a rebuilt dizzy and do it my self? Thanks

 

Fordication, which one?

 

I've gone through 2 Pertronix I's, and getting ready to put on the third. Call me a glutton for punishment. The first burned up along with the coil when the ignition was left on overnight. The second went, apparently due to one or more of the following: no ballast resistor, no motor to frame ground, and an overloaded ignition circuit. Hopefully the third time will be the last for a while.

 

Hey 46-My instructions had me eliminate the ballast resistor.The reason I went with a Pertronics II vs. I was because I had previously had a "I" disinigrate on an old Dodge Dart when I was an active member of the Slant 6 Club.Back then ,there wasn't a Pertronics II.I guess,though ,that based on that one bad experience -plus the fact that I'm generally a sucker for anything I perceive as an upgrade-I bought the II unit.So far ,so good,but I am gonna get out there and check all my grounds.Here in the Redwoods,it's damp and wet a good portion of the year.Steve

 

How much should a PII cost for a Y-block? Ed

 

Ibuzzard, the use or deletion of the resistor in the I is still up in the air for me. It seems like opinions are 50/50. The old instructions I had said not to use it if you are using the flamethrower I. But the flamethrower tested out the same as the stock coil in terms of resistance. So I need to call Pertronix for a clarification, or maybe the instructions with this third unit have changed. Havent read them yet.

59flatbed, I think rogerf100 has pics of an alternator bracket in his gallery. Forgot where he got it. GM one wires are popular, and the two wires are equally easy to wire. Lots of choices.

 

I got confused by the conflicting info and not one to be overly impressed by advertising budgets, bought a Crane electronic ignition upgrade. Besides, it has a rev limiter built into it. $20 cheaper and a rev limiter all because they don't waste $ on ads.

Yea, it'll probably fry, too but I'll be out $20 less than the rest of you.

TC

 

I just installed a GM 1-wire alternator this past weekend,using plans for modifying the existing generator bracket.Got a link from a past posting on this site to http://www.ranchwagon.com/tech/alt/alt.htm.Good instructions,easy to follow,great photos.I am very happy with the result.Got my 100 amp, black powder-coated alternator from Summit Racing for only $77.95,and it arrived in just 3 days.The black looks more tastefull than the chrome on my mostly stock 292,in my never -so- humble opinion.Steve

 

I have the Mallory HyFire setup and it has been flawless for years.

 

I've heard so many different things about resistor/no resistor that, personally, I'd call Pertronix. The difference, most people say, is whether you are running a OE-type coil, or the Flamethrower coil. Ed, the PII price is around $110, for '57-later distributors only ; the P-I is available for both early & late dizzys & is around $75 (Summit prices).

Another option is (if you have a '56 or earlier distributor) to get a replacement from NAPA, Advance, AutoZone (they all seem to be the Cardone-sourced unit now), which is a '57 & later style, with the late SBF-type O-ring body; then if you want, use the Pertronix, Crane, Mallory, Accel, etc. conversion kits. The Crane kit runs about $65 & is pretty reliable from what I hear; the Accel & Mallory are about $60. If you have a '57-later unit already, then it can be converted without replacing it.

Check the various chains as they vary in price on the '57-later distributor; I think AutoZone was the cheapest, around $59?? , last time I looked.

One wire alternators are very easy to hook up; the disadvantage is that being self-exciting, they don't always detect the "true" voltage reading downstream, so to speak. Depending on what accessories have been added, this may or may not be a problem.

Three wire units are a little more difficult (not much) to wire, but often produce better results. Again, a lot of this depends on what shape the wiring is in, how the circuits are wired, & how much stuff has been added on.

The difference between the two types is that a one-wire detects the voltage reading right at the output of the alternator & adjusts itself accordingly; a three-wire reads the voltage from somewhere downstream, in my case at the ignition switch power terminal, & adjusts itself. It is quite possible, depending on the wiring, for some, or most, accessories (like lights) to not be getting full voltage, even though the reading at the alternator output is 12v-14v. A three wire, if wired right, will correct for that; a one-wire will not. In older vehicles with simple systems, you may never notice any difference between the two types.

My three-wire alternator uses a combination of a simple, "generic style" late '60s-type GM upper bracket, & original Ford gen. lower bracket.