Change torgue converter?
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 60
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Change torgue converter?
73 F100 360 C-6 3.00
The 360 is warmed over with Edelbrock 600cfm vac. carb and Performer intake. I know the new crank has a slight lift to it, but I am not sure of the specs. The rebuild was done about 45k miles and 12 yrs ago. The truck runs good, and has lots of power at highway speeds. Right now, the truck pulls the hardest 30-45 mph in 1st gear, and 45-80 in 2nd. I want to improve the low-end for stoplight runs and medium towing, and am considering a taller rear gear. That should be a separate question -- anyone have a similar setup with opinions between 3.5 and 3.7?
On to my real question, I think it has the stock tc, and I am wondering what difference will a higher stall tc make?
The 360 is warmed over with Edelbrock 600cfm vac. carb and Performer intake. I know the new crank has a slight lift to it, but I am not sure of the specs. The rebuild was done about 45k miles and 12 yrs ago. The truck runs good, and has lots of power at highway speeds. Right now, the truck pulls the hardest 30-45 mph in 1st gear, and 45-80 in 2nd. I want to improve the low-end for stoplight runs and medium towing, and am considering a taller rear gear. That should be a separate question -- anyone have a similar setup with opinions between 3.5 and 3.7?
On to my real question, I think it has the stock tc, and I am wondering what difference will a higher stall tc make?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,960
Likes: 5
From: All over Texas
Change torgue converter?
Torque converters are generally misunderstood and somewhat complicated to understand (at least for me). I've got a somewhat similar setup compared to yours, with the exception of the rear gears in mine being 3.73's. I recently got the transmission rebuilt and a new converter. Prior to the work, I asked the transmission guy whether or not to install a higher RPM converter and he strongly suggested not to for my intended uses of towing and general driving. The stock stall speed is around 1800-1900 RPM and is measured in a range rather than a static number. If you do anything, change out the gears.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: New England
Change torgue converter?
unless your cam has a duration (intake) over 290 degrees, I would stay away from those things...pay close attention to fuel metering, pressure, try advancing timing a little.. try a larger accelerator pump. I have had good luck with changing metering rods, springs, etc etc, and I have 2.75 ratio!! the 400 will smoke em down if I feel like wasting my new good year wranglers
trial and error
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3a9df0394b631ce6.gif
77'FORD F150 XLT 400
trial and error
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3a9df0394b631ce6.gif
77'FORD F150 XLT 400
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Change torgue converter?
> trial and error
<sigh...> there are no shortcuts...
I know this isn't the best indication of stall speed, but if I power brake my truck, the engine will not rev over 1200 rpm, and will not overpower the brakes and traction of the stock tires. Somehow this seems wrong to me, because of the way the truck performs at higher speeds. I tried the flash stall speed test as well, and it doesn't seem to be much higher.
If it is a fuel problem, should I change the metering rods and springs? My guess is the accelerator pump is out of the picture after the initial press of the pedal.
Is there a safe way to tell if the secondaries are opening all the way? I guess I need to get a vacuum and vacuum gauge. Measure the vacuum I am pulling at WOT, and then apply that (negative) pressure to the secondaries.
<sigh...> there are no shortcuts...
I know this isn't the best indication of stall speed, but if I power brake my truck, the engine will not rev over 1200 rpm, and will not overpower the brakes and traction of the stock tires. Somehow this seems wrong to me, because of the way the truck performs at higher speeds. I tried the flash stall speed test as well, and it doesn't seem to be much higher.
If it is a fuel problem, should I change the metering rods and springs? My guess is the accelerator pump is out of the picture after the initial press of the pedal.
Is there a safe way to tell if the secondaries are opening all the way? I guess I need to get a vacuum and vacuum gauge. Measure the vacuum I am pulling at WOT, and then apply that (negative) pressure to the secondaries.
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