Blown Alternator?
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Blown Alternator?
I left my dome light on yesterday afternoon and started my car after I turned it off. I didn't leave it running long enough, however, so I couldn't restart it later. SO I got a jump start. Unfortunately the wiring on my battery is backwards but it was too dark to tell so we had the wrong sides plugged into the battery for about ten seconds. All of the power went out of the car. However, once we plugged in the right sides the power came back. Never enough, however, to start the car on the battery. Thus, I bought a new battery today. I put it in and everything looks okay--except now the red battery light is on and the battery gage is reading at a low point and does not fluctuate with the power of the engine. My question is: did I blow out the alternator? If not, is something else wrong or is it normal for a new battery to not fluctuate on the gage?
Posting Guru
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From: Racine county, WI
Originally Posted by Triphicus
My question is: did I blow out the alternator? If not, is something else wrong or is it normal for a new battery to not fluctuate on the gage?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
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Could have fried a diode in the alternator.
Get a small volt tester, I picked on up for about $4
test the battery cables when running
Should read between 13 and 14 volts when running if the alternator is charging.
Get a small volt tester, I picked on up for about $4
test the battery cables when running
Should read between 13 and 14 volts when running if the alternator is charging.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,283
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From: Racine county, WI
Originally Posted by spiritwild
Could have fried a diode in the alternator.
Get a small volt tester, I picked on up for about $4
test the battery cables when running
Should read between 13 and 14 volts when running if the alternator is charging.
Get a small volt tester, I picked on up for about $4
test the battery cables when running
Should read between 13 and 14 volts when running if the alternator is charging.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
true,true.
after testing it, if you dont get a volt reading above 11 or 12 then you should remove it and have it tested at autozone or some place.
I actually took mine 2 different places, cause I hate the autozone around here. "shady"
Hope you don't need a new one, they don't come cheap
I actually have one from an f150, someone before me changed the bracket
and I didn't know it. When the bronco alt didn't fit right I was just stumped for a while. Worked out, f150 alt was 10 bucks cheaper
after testing it, if you dont get a volt reading above 11 or 12 then you should remove it and have it tested at autozone or some place.
I actually took mine 2 different places, cause I hate the autozone around here. "shady"
Hope you don't need a new one, they don't come cheap
I actually have one from an f150, someone before me changed the bracket
and I didn't know it. When the bronco alt didn't fit right I was just stumped for a while. Worked out, f150 alt was 10 bucks cheaper
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Well, having done this (reversing leads) before... first, check all your fusible links. Those usually go first, and shortly after, if the links hold long enough, you burn up diodes. The fusible links would seem appropriate for the symptoms you described. If you blew a diode, then you'd fry the links... shortly after blowing up your battery and all your electronics (even one bad diode is like hooking your battery up to your house wiring... bad ju-ju).
New User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18
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i wouldnt have a sick dog tested at autozone. that chain sucks. sorry parts 90% of the time. if you can, go to O'riely's or advance butnot autojunks/zone. better yet help ur own towns economy out, go to the local parts house. locally owned helps local economy.
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