The wife complained about a slight grinding noise when braking her 1995 E150 Conversion Van. Pulled the front wheel and both rotors are scored. The book says minimum 1/16th pad thickness before replacement. It's at about 1/8th on the passengers side outer pad but has ruined the rotor. Drivers side has a gouge running at mid rotor and has about 3/16th pad surface remaining. I've never done the brakes on this van so it's going to be a new experience. I'll see if the rotors can be turned but I expect to have to replace them. Is there any advice as to re-using the bearings or should I get new ones? New grease seals with inner bearings? Any advice very appreciated! Thank You.

 

Always get new seals, bearing, races when replacing the rotors.

 

My E150 goes through brakes pretty fast, so I don't recommend replacing everything just because you're doing brakes. If you're doing it because the parts are old or worn out, by all means replace them.

You do not need to replace the bearings with a rotor. Inspect to see if anything has scored them and the race is completely intact. They should be repacked with grease and of course be careful to avoid getting dirt on them. Good bearings are expensive and last a long time. Maintaining them is preferrable to buying cheap ones over and over anyways.

You need a tub of the appropriate bearing grease for disc brakes.

Now the inner bearing seal, you may or may not have to replace. If they're in good shape AND you don't bend them up taking it apart, you can reuse them no problem.

I'm assuming you have the brakes with the rubber-cored retaining pins for the calipers. REPLACE THESE. This may be why the pads wore unevenly. Also get new retaining spring clips.

Inspect the flexible part of the brake line for cracking.

 

I figured the brake pads/rotors have around 18-19K on them if I remember correctly. Had to replace them while in Louisiana 2 years ago for same reason as this time. I let it slip my mind and hadn't checked the pad thickness so the backing plates got into the rotors. It looks like it's too late once you hear that grinding. The local NAPA has lifetime inner bearings for 9.99 so as I am going to get new rotors anyway why not? My pitiful Haynes manual says not to mix new bearings on old races. My Louisiana cajun nephews did that last rotor/pad job 18K miles ago and I doubt that they lubbed the pins or caliper rail knowing them. Is there a special grease besides the hi-speed bearing grease that I should use on the pins/sliderail? I've got quite a few of those little squeeze-packets of anti-squeal lube. Would that work for the pins, etc.? This van is the Wife's daily-10mpg-driver and it's getting old enough that all the little aggrevating things associated with a conversion van are starting to wear out. But she loves the comfort so I have to wait and see how long she can take those $60-$70 fillups. At least she doesn't run it so low on gas that she fries the fuel pump anymore! Made her pay for that $700 lapse in judgement last year. There's just so much to try to do preventative maintenience on with an aging conversion van. Especially one that grew up on the salty winter roads of Detroit! Thanks for the replies.

 

Don't bother turning the rotors. If you turn them, they will warp after you use them awhile. Spend the money and get good ones. I have been down this path twice with the cheapest rotors from NAPA and they all warped by 6K miles.

Also, for those slides, get some caliper grease at the local autoparts store. Wheel bearing grease will get gummed up with dirt and prevent the sliding. Make sure you thoroughly clean the slide surface on the calipers and on the spindle assemblies. Once they are clean, grease those surfaces and the caliper pins with caliper grease.

 

I second not turning the rotors. They are prone to warping anyway, turning just makes it happen that much faster anyway. Always replace the grease seals (they are cheap) and repack the bearings after inspection. I have 245,000 miles on my van and have never replaced the bearings. Been through several sets of rotors though.

Oh, and on the last brake job I switched from Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads to Ceramic pads (From Carquest) along with Carquest rotors. I have never been happier with the brakes on this van. The ceramic pads stop great in all conditions (I tow ALOT), there is viturally no wear on the rotors and NO DUST!!!! I give these pads and rotors my highest recommendation.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

I got the new rotors/pads/bearings installed and everything torqued to spec. Test drive was great. Upon returning home I noticed the heater core started dripping as if on Q!!!! I dove into it. I learned I have the quick disconnect heater hoses that require the special tool for unhooking/hooking the plastic retainers. The special tool isn't the little rings like I used on the fuel filter. It more of a L-shaped plate that fits over the hose fitting for forcing the retainer in and out of the fitting. Can these be manipulated with out spending $65 for this flimsy special tool or am I doomed to buying it? I've found that the aluminum heater core's lower in/out tube is more than likely the culprit as both the inlet and outlet hose fittings are dry. Upper tube dry too. So is there a way to disconnect these heater hoses without getting disconnected from $65 for the tool? I've posted the this heater problem in the AC/Heating forum too. It's dripping alittle worse and will be un-drivable soon. Most of the coolant is going out the condensation drain tube with a few drops on the carpeting. Thanks All.

 

I had to do the heater core in mine and try as I might to get those things loose, I couldn't. I bought the tool for $50 from MATCO. Even with the tool it was a PITA to get them to release.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

Next time, try the ceramic brake pads from napa, they will double the life of the rotors.