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Brake Rotor Replacement ?

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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:47 AM
  #1  
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Brake Rotor Replacement ?

This probably belongs in the brakes forum, but you guys know everything and I've never posted there

Had my rotors turned / pads replaced a couple of months ago at a local shop. Things were good for about a month and then the warp returned. Kinda chaps me mad cause I told the owner to replace the rotors if they were warped as I've never had any luck having them turned -- he "insisted" there was plenty of material left in 'em and decided to turn 'em.

It's a good local shop, but the guy doesn't follow instructions -- only hears things "his" way.

I'm gonna fix 'em myself, two basic questions and thought I'd do the slide pin repair Guzzle posted up a couple weeks ago.

1) Do brake rotors need to be replaced in pairs?

2) Do I need to change out the pads (these pads are only 2 months old)?

Here's the reason I ask: if the answer to both is yes, then I'm probably going to spring for the Powerslots with ceramic pads. If I can get away with replacing only one rotor and reusing the old (new) pads then I'll go stock/cheap.

Thanks,
Craig
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Interesting article, but the guy sure seems to go out of his way to make the concept complicated.

My interpretation:

- rotors don't warp, they just have their thickness affected by built-up (sometimes invisible) pad material - which has the same effect as warping

- rotors can be permanently altered (via cementite) by excessive heat - which again has the same effect as warping

Bottom line: rotors have a bunch of crud build up on them that makes them seem like they're warped.

I'll try the garnet paper idea. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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If you remove the rotors and put them back, make sure to blow all steel-to-steel mating surfaces clean with air and then brush with a wire brush. All it takes is a teeny little grain of dirt in between two steel mating surfaces and now rotors and pads are misaligned. All my brake jobs used to end up with the pulsating pedal. Then I read this tip in one of my shop manuals and I haven't had the problem since.
 

Last edited by qman; Feb 28, 2006 at 05:14 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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Thanks. I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and get the powerslots & hawk pads. I've got almost 118k on the OEMs so seems like I'm due. I'll definitely follow the bedding procedures.

Craig
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig64
Thanks. I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and get the powerslots & hawk pads. I've got almost 118k on the OEMs so seems like I'm due. I'll definitely follow the bedding procedures.

Craig
From everything I have heard, this is an excellent choice, I am going to do the same thing when I replace mine.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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...................I had a complete brake job done on my 99PSD at 82k . left front rotor was replaced with a new one ($99) and the remaining 3 were were all turned just enough to suit the mechanic . I had them turn the old LF rotor and now I have a spare for the front if need be . I ordered the Z rated pads for the front and just went ahead with regular replacements for the rear . I've put about 11k miles on the truck so far and have Not had any problems . There are differences in rotors as the mechanic caught a mistake by the parts house and he sent it back and they delivered the correct part number .......so Check your invoice for part numbers just to be safe . Mechanic says it is VERY easy for parts guy\people to make mistakes on rotors . sk
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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I just put them on. TireRack.com has the front cryo slots in stock any place else will send them out for treatment and it will take 7 -10 days. Buybrakes.com has them cheaper with free shipping. I put the Hawk LTS pads in the front and the standard pads in the rear. The LTS is a new lining and are not available for the rear yet. The LTs is a cross between the standard hawk lining and the super duty. So rather than wait, I got the front cryos from TireRack and the rest from buybrakes. This is the combination that the engineer at power slot recommended.

Makes your wallet cry though. Good Luck Might as well change out the calipers while your at it. No sense in ruining $200 worth of brake parts for another $60. I used the phenolics which were what was on the truck from the factory.

PS I was always told that once a rotor warps it will warp again even if you can turn the bad spots off it. If I think of it I will post the warped 1 year old rotors I took off it. Yuck!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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