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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 05:27 PM
  #1  
Gage2502's Avatar
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Air Filter

Does anyone use the Advanced Flow Engineering "AFE" Air filter intake kit on their 2005 V10?
Does it really increase HP and Torque?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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I believe Captchas has one.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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yes i have one. take a look in my gallery.as to the kit it's built strong and good. a very easy install right unto the factory air box lower section. when you order it get the pre filter also and a cleaner kit. cost less up front. also heres the link some one gave me. about 20 % off then right from afe. free shipping in the usa. and they ship real fast,
http://www.proguard7direct.com/rpStoreFront/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1015
 

Last edited by captchas; Feb 27, 2006 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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Charlie, You believe the 17 tq an 12 hp gain hype?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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no ! i don't think any really give any thing other then causeing mil code p0175 when the mass air sensor gets dirty. and cause a rich mixture condition.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 06:16 PM
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Ok, so would you recomend one?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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yes and no

yes if you like to hear a louder air intake when you gun it. i like it! but know most of the normal guys like fred and wrench and a few others will say leave it stock and i do agree with them. i have had to clear codes p0175 and p0172 many times and clean off my mass air with electronics cleaner because of the filters oil and what it dos not hold out.

my truck is used in shows along with a 05 5.4 powered f150 for my buddies shop and in his advertisments to show case what he sells. and the work he preforms. so guys my anwser is truthfully yes and no. right now i have the stock filter on, show time the afe goes back on, takes 10 mins both ways .

power wise on the dyno it took a awfull lot of work to get 40 more on the ground and most of it was in the trans programing and inside the trans by 1, cutting out the built in torqe reduction programing to the ground. 2, adding a new type multi disc lockup convertor with a different material type inside.furance brazing the vanes ,needle bearings inplace of brass shims . i mean blow proofing the unit, 3, all the clutch packs modified and the blue discs and black steel plates added, valve body modified, 5. 4:56 gear sets and rear locker unit. 6, headers and custom exhaust 4 different mufflers.
GUYS! here i will say as fred has been saying for many years now DON"T TOUCH THEM. DRIVE THEM.

maybe if you have a older one with 3:73's, and feel the motor shifting to much when towing, then yes a gear swap to 4:30's will help more then any hiper parts you can buy short of a blower kit.

and that is the ultimite way to redo of a v10. yes you can do headers, no low end increase there. we can add a freeer flowing exhaust.some work some don't. some sound ok. some sound like dirt. we can mod the y pipe one works ok the summit one, stans tends to cause a flutter noise. we can change the air intake to the after market types. lots of DA ,DA! will it won't it!

GUYS just listen to fredvon4, he's CORRECT. now cost wise if i had to pay for all my parts and work maybe 7k it would have been. and thats just to get more of what the motor has to start with back onto the ground. not lost in the drive train.

not worth it guys, the only way i think is a good one for a v10 is a super charger and maybe 7 or 8 pounds of boost.i don't know how much this motor can handle .it has one very strong low end in it. 4 bolt mains on the out side ends and cross bolts in the center making them 6 bolt. a steel crank and rods . pistons? well if your going to boost it high, i think a set of forged slugs are in order for high pounds low pounds thestockers will work fine.

it's all up to each owner about what he or she wants to do .it's their cash and ride.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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I don't... zero bang for the buck in a standard truck. All the increased hp and torque gains are up top and most of us spend 85% or more at 1900-2500rpm. They are good for max performance at WOT but no appreciable gain for the cost.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:11 PM
  #9  
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When I called AFE a while back about throwing a code do to oil on the MAF I was told theirs was the "ONLY OIL" not to throw a code. So much for that.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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i have two words for that and the letters are B.S. yes it does and just today after my wife took it for a drive as i still can't. the light was on again dirty mass air. cleaned and sent her back out code gone. stock filter was back on it and she drove it 50 some thing miles . recheck no codes in the computer.

fred said it first. and i had to back him up with my years on the line in dealers . any oiled filter will at some point foul the mass air so be it with oil or uncaught dirt. and mine even has the prefilter. man was the sensor dirty.
yes the afe kit looks great, fits great. but i will put it back on when we have a show to go to only.
the one item on mine that has helped is the maghytec oil pan and covers.my trans when towing runs at around 150 degs . that is good. i have not yet added diff temp gauges but that is on my want list. as i would like to know how much cooler they are with 2 extra qts of 75w140 syntec from ford in them
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by captchas
fred said it first. and i had to back him up with my years on the line in dealers . any oiled filter will at some point foul the mass air so be it with oil or uncaught dirt. and mine even has the prefilter. man was the sensor dirty.
Even my stock setup, with stock Motorcraft paper filter, dirtied the MAF enough at 22K miles I was noticing shifting irregularities (on a 4R100 tranny) and other cold-engine drivability problems (mostly throttle response).

I now consider it a "tuneup" item to be done at every (or every other) oil change (I run into the 3-months change interval way before I hit 1K miles).

My '96 t-bird 4.6L had a K&N on it and that thing fouled the MAF so much, it was, again, an oil-change/tune-up task. But I thought only the K&N was doing that until I checked the wife's '97 cougar and the V10. Whew. Woke up both vehicles that always ran stock filters.

Basically, every MAF-equipped car (Ford and GM) I've ever had my hands in (only 10 or so), the MAF was dirty. And everytime I cleaned them, it woke right up.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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yes art again your correct. clean them every so often 2 times a year is enough.

most of the older guys know i spent my years fixing vw's and audi's with second jobs to help pay child support working for the local cummins and detroit dealers.

with vw the oiled filters would just total the mass airs out and on them your talking a $300.00 part to replace you can't get the spray inside enough to clean them . but the truth be it. a dealer is not going to clean it.they are selling you a new one.
is it really worth it?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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Notice the "seal" on the anti-tamper screws that hold the MAF in? That little orange paint that obviously gets broken ?

I wonder if they'd refuse to warranty it after that?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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mine did not have any paint. just 2 torqes screws.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by krewat
Notice the "seal" on the anti-tamper screws that hold the MAF in? That little orange paint that obviously gets broken ?

I wonder if they'd refuse to warranty it after that?

ford uses paint dots on either the MAF or the PS bracket , its not to prevent tampering. ford uses it as a check sheet each color equals a item which has been installed and inspected. there should be blue, orange , purple ,green, yellow and pink. that is from a friend who works on the assembly line in canada.
 
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