Coil to leaf spring swap
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Elder User
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Coil to leaf spring swap
On my 94 F-150, I am toying with the idea of swaping in front leaf springs from a similar year F-250 or F-350. I was wondering what all is involved in this swap. Also, the front of the frame is sort of accordion looking, supposedly for front end impact protection. Do the 250s and 350s have this? I'm hoping it will be as simple as removing my spring buckets, install the leaf spring mounts and some shock mounts, and then removing the TTB setup and swap in a solid axle. Anybody done this one, or have any knowledge?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Front spring hangers and shackles is about all there is to it. That's a pretty simple swap. Given the option though, I'd much rather use coil springs up front over leafs. They'll typically ride far better.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
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From: Senoia, GA
i'm with ivan 100% on this, you need to stick with coils. mucho better ride! if you are looking to swap a Dana 60 or Dana 44HD in then its not all that hard to swap the axle to coils. just get some wedges from broncograveyard and run'em with some 70's style radius arms.
-cutts-
-cutts-
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I don't know why I didn't mention this before, but eventually (right after the axle swap,), I am swaping in a 12 Valve Cummins. Thats why I am leaning towards leaves. I have thought about using lift springs from a late model Dodge, but they are coilovers I think. IDK, to me it seems like the same amount of work either way, but as long as the end result is the same (lifted truck, SAS, big, powerful engine), I'm happy. Will I get more flex/ suspension travel out of one or the other styles of spring? I would think coils would give me more.
Last edited by RotGrubestier44; Feb 26, 2006 at 12:19 PM.
Postmaster
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From: Rep. of Texas
any spring you find for a diesel will not offer much droop or especially compression travel. Even those 6 and 8" Z-link kits for the PSD's from Skyjacker offer limited travel. I would think that some 6" leaves would offer the most amount of flex out of anything for a diesel w/ a solid axle.
Cummins are kick *** though, i want to see pictures when the truck is "done"
Cummins are kick *** though, i want to see pictures when the truck is "done"
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It is going to be a 3 year project, and I'm gonna build it up gradually, but the end result will be a 94 F-150 4x4 with about 10" of lift, 44" Boggers, a 12 Valve Cummins ISB (built to 800+ hp), Dynatrac Dana 80s front and rear w/ hydro steering, NV4500 tranny, NV-241 HD divorced T-case, Lund Moon Visor and Cab riser, BuckStop front and rear bumpers, dual miter cut 5" chrome stacks, a Wolo Canonball Express 152db train horn, Wolo dixie horn, and a whole bunch of other stuff. I'm not even going to mention how much I am spending, but to me, its WAY worth it!
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Postmaster
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From: Rep. of Texas
That will be a sweet truck... you should cut the boggers... also, you might consider moving the front axle forwards to help displace the weight of that heavy engine...
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Elder User
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Yeah, its gonna be alot of fun when its done. I figure when the time comes for the drivetrain swap, I will be looking to alot of you, for advice and tips. Lol. Seems like ya'll know your $#!+, and have done alot of this before (either that or you're all really good BSers and geniuses with photo editor). I've only done a little bit here and there. Lucky for me, I'm going to school for diesel mechanics, and there is a custom diesel shop about 45 minutes away, so parts availability and professional help aren't too far away.
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From: Iowa
I'll feel sorry when you're trying to put that diesel in there after its all lifted and everything for the solid axle.
Remember you need 4" of lift with crossmember trimming, and 6" minimum if you leave the crossmember intact. Best option would probably be to build a new crossmember. ESPECIALLY with your plans to put a heavy cummins in there - you DO NOT want that engine crossmember to smash into the top of your differential with the weight of a diesel behind it.
Remember you need 4" of lift with crossmember trimming, and 6" minimum if you leave the crossmember intact. Best option would probably be to build a new crossmember. ESPECIALLY with your plans to put a heavy cummins in there - you DO NOT want that engine crossmember to smash into the top of your differential with the weight of a diesel behind it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by Flareside94
I'll feel sorry when you're trying to put that diesel in there after its all lifted and everything for the solid axle.
Remember you need 4" of lift with crossmember trimming, and 6" minimum if you leave the crossmember intact. Best option would probably be to build a new crossmember. ESPECIALLY with your plans to put a heavy cummins in there - you DO NOT want that engine crossmember to smash into the top of your differential with the weight of a diesel behind it.
Remember you need 4" of lift with crossmember trimming, and 6" minimum if you leave the crossmember intact. Best option would probably be to build a new crossmember. ESPECIALLY with your plans to put a heavy cummins in there - you DO NOT want that engine crossmember to smash into the top of your differential with the weight of a diesel behind it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
the F150 frames are slightly thinner than the F250/F350. I'd probably run a diesel in an F150 frame, but I'd beef up the front frame some, and box it. The F250/350 frames are rought 3/16" thick, whereas the F150 is ~5/32" thick. The main differences are that the F250/350 are boxed more in the front. the F150 are boxed like ~1' on either side (for the steering box mainly).
with that said, a F250/350 is a better platform, but is hard to just go out and buy a frame. I lucked out when I got mine ('90 diesel F250HD). it was still $550 bux.
with that said, a F250/350 is a better platform, but is hard to just go out and buy a frame. I lucked out when I got mine ('90 diesel F250HD). it was still $550 bux.
Last edited by IB Tim; Feb 26, 2006 at 07:56 PM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Roseburg, OR
Originally Posted by Flareside94
Best option would probably be to build a new crossmember. ESPECIALLY with your plans to put a heavy cummins in there - you DO NOT want that engine crossmember to smash into the top of your differential with the weight of a diesel behind it.
I'm with these guys though. I researched putting a newer Cummins in a '77 F-350 I've got tucked away (it's a little crunched up...), and when I looked at the frame rails and xmembers on Cummins-equipped Dodges, and then happened to compare them to my F-100... wow. Now I think the '90s F-150 frames are more stout than my old '72 F-100, but not the same as those Dodges.
IIRC, there are a couple of points where the F-150 frame rails get pretty narrow (that would be "short" if you're looking at them from the side), and with that kind of weight, lift, and intended use... I think you need to seriously look in to modifying the frame or starting out with a bigger one.
Just my $0.02, though, your project is already pretty big, something like this shouldn't make it unstoppable.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
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From: Senoia, GA
since this is obviously gonna be a long and somewhat expensive project i would run with the idea of moving the cummin around the better displace the weight.
i think if you placed the cummins towards the rear of the truck as in right b/t the cab and bed or all the way in the bed but as far forward as possible you would actually have a huge adavantage over everyone else. your truck would be more level (in theory), you wouldn't have to worry about the 1/2 ton frame b/c its not dangling off the front, and all four springs are soaking up the weight so you would attain a better ride (again, in theory). I would definetly conceal it thought, just cut enough sheet metal to get everything in. i think it'd be cool to have it that way and then the truck look stock! tell everyone it was a dealer option
to hook everything up would be somewhat easy to.... turn the cummins so the flywheel is facing the rear bumper. then hook up your tranny and t-case going the other way towards the front of the truck. you would run your front axle off the rear output and the rear axle off the front output.
thats just one of the few things i would do if i had a project going like that!
-cutts-
i think if you placed the cummins towards the rear of the truck as in right b/t the cab and bed or all the way in the bed but as far forward as possible you would actually have a huge adavantage over everyone else. your truck would be more level (in theory), you wouldn't have to worry about the 1/2 ton frame b/c its not dangling off the front, and all four springs are soaking up the weight so you would attain a better ride (again, in theory). I would definetly conceal it thought, just cut enough sheet metal to get everything in. i think it'd be cool to have it that way and then the truck look stock! tell everyone it was a dealer option
to hook everything up would be somewhat easy to.... turn the cummins so the flywheel is facing the rear bumper. then hook up your tranny and t-case going the other way towards the front of the truck. you would run your front axle off the rear output and the rear axle off the front output.
thats just one of the few things i would do if i had a project going like that!
-cutts-
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Elkhart IN
man cutts, you have this all figured out. there was a ebay truck set up with a mid rear engine, and what he did was run 2 t cases, with a 3rd driveshaft, and put the third dead center so that he could run the longest drivelines possible.