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when you accelerate is it choppy going through the turbo?
I dont really understand the question. When I accelerate I can really hear the kwik filter sound kinda choppy, but I think thats just air comming in. How much did you pay to have that test done? Should I just take it to the dealer? If I do have bad or weak injectors I would like to install stage I's
I added a 1/4 of a bottle of diesel kleen in each tank and it seems like it raised the idle a little. I think I will just have to stop being so worried about it and just drive it till it breaks. By the way when you do upgrade to beans injectors do you send yours in and have those upgraded, and he sends you your injectors back. Or are yours just a core for the next guy on the list? I was thinking of the down time when swapping.
I added a 1/4 of a bottle of diesel kleen in each tank and it seems like it raised the idle a little. I think I will just have to stop being so worried about it and just drive it till it breaks. By the way when you do upgrade to beans injectors do you send yours in and have those upgraded, and he sends you your injectors back. Or are yours just a core for the next guy on the list? I was thinking of the down time when swapping.
Well that's weird I asked him that same question today in an email. He told me that you get the injectors THEN you send him your old ones. Sounds like a smoking deal!! I might be on that train!!!
I'm kinda the wrong place here cause my truck is a 2000 PSD, but I didn't get much response from the Forum in that section. When I saw this thread I knew I fit right in! I bought my truck with a 120,000 miles, and it had this warm idling problem when i got it. I found that it runs best on Rotella T oil, and almost won't idle on Mobil??? I had a computer on it for a cylinder contribution test, and it came out so perfect i didn't know if I should believe it???? However, it showed the high pressure oil pressure at 400 when idling, and about 1600? at full throttle. According to the Ford tech manual that is a bit low?? I think my next step is the IPR??
From time to time I too have the rough idle. Most of the time it will be after the truck is warm, I shut her down for a few minutes and then when started again it will rough idle for 5 - 10 sec and then smooth out. Sometimes after I have pulled a heavy load or run down the interstate it will rough idle but just enough I notice it, my wife does not notice it.
Over the past couple yrs I have changed the valve cover wire harness and hpop/IPR. Also changed the cam sensor. Tuck is 95 dual, manual trans, 195K mile, only mods are to the exh, down pipe and straight pipe.
I am open to ideas. I had the dealer check it out and everything looked good. I figure it may be something with an injector or hopeing it is. I have been looking at Beans stage 1s and that would be a good sale to give the wife if one of the existing inj were bad. lol
My 96 and my 97 do the same thing. It is better after an oil change. I use the Rotella 15-40. It bothered me at first, but I have too much other stuff to worry about. As long as it starts and works all day, I will let it be rough. If one breaks I have the other PSD, and I have a 90 IDI I can use. Mine are both under 100K. So I guess it is what they do.
I added a 1/4 of a bottle of diesel kleen in each tank and it seems like it raised the idle a little. I think I will just have to stop being so worried about it and just drive it till it breaks. By the way when you do upgrade to beans injectors do you send yours in and have those upgraded, and he sends you your injectors back. Or are yours just a core for the next guy on the list? I was thinking of the down time when swapping.
you can remove yours and send em in and he will mod em and send em back. or if you dont want to wait he will send you out a set you install them and then send in your old ones. it just all depends on how much time you got.
I guess I'll be following the progress for everyone on this one too. I've got a horrible idle when this thing is warm and comes off a highway run. It just shakes like the timing is off. Goose the go pedal a bit and it levels back out but it'll shake your teeth if you don't tap the juice. Hope it's not the clutch but rather the IPR, a little cheaper to fix. Keep posting with your results guys!
This is a little off topic. Everyone keeps talking about Beans injectors. I am fairly new and was hoping to get more info on them. Can anyone help me with this? Thanks, Dustin
It sounds like a lot of people have this problem. The other day I was going down the highway with the cruise on and the engine died for a couple of seconds and I saw the wait to start light turn on, it turned back on and ran fine for another 4 hours til I got home. Got a 344 (i think) code for the cam sensor. Will this stupid sensor cause a rough idle? I still think the IPR or IPC is the cause of my troubles. Also to you guys with a manual tranny after you get off the highway or have been runing a long time does your clutch pedal kinda stick when you release it? I replaced the pedal assembly and was wondering if something is wrong with the hydrolics.
Well I've got the rough idle after highway cruising but no issues with the clutch pedal at all. Don't know if that helps at all but at least ya know now.
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