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i got a 81 f150 and i got a couple of rust spots here and there but one bad rust spot on my cab corner,my question is should i get them welded up,or get them bondo???? i think welding them would be the better choice, but my buddy said bondo would be better.is bondoing them gonna be better than welding them???? thanx
Best repair, imo is cutting out all the bad metal and welding in patch panels.
Bondo is a temp. fix but there are some products that are more resistant to moisture than others. Some folks are also using glued on patch panels. The main thing you need to do is make sure you get all the rust out, front and back, then seal both sides, otherwise any repair is only temporary.
Bondo, or any other brand filler is not a repair for rusted metal. If you use it, the rust will eventually come back. Also, Bondo is not water resistant, so if the area can get wet from the inside, you will have a problem. Cut out the damaged area, weld in a patch panel and use a thin layer of body filler to even out the surface. Never more than 1/4" thick. Also, you may look for a filler called Duraglass that is a fiberglass based filler and has much better water resistance if that area is subject to alot of moisture.
I would choose the glue on method,have used it lots and swear by it,plus the bonus is that you get a nice waterproof seal around all the edges of the new panel...I used to weld in lots of panels and now use the glue only but not on anything structural like floorboards or cab mounts and such....just my .2 cents
I would choose the glue on method,have used it lots and swear by it,plus the bonus is that you get a nice waterproof seal around all the edges of the new panel...I used to weld in lots of panels and now use the glue only but not on anything structural like floorboards or cab mounts and such....just my .2 cents
I agree. Panel adhesive is the way to go. I did my rear wheel wells on my 86.
Welded in one patch panel and used adhesive on the other. This was six years ago. My buddy who owns a body shop, didn't trust the adhesive. So this was an experiment. The welded side is rusted out. The adhesive side is still good.
How do you get corrosion protection between two welded pieces of sheet metal? When you weld, you burn the corrosion protection off between the sheet metal.
The repair time in glueing is far less time and labour intensive than welding as well...not near as much grinding so therefore easier on the metal as well....when I welded in panels,like a rear wheelwell for example,I would spot it on and then spend several hours solid welding the seem up,if ya missed one little weld in the metal, you could almost be guaranteed that there is where moisture will seep through and cause the rusting to start again
The repair time in glueing is far less time and labour intensive than welding as well...not near as much grinding so therefore easier on the metal as well....when I welded in panels,like a rear wheelwell for example,I would spot it on and then spend several hours solid welding the seem up,if ya missed one little weld in the metal, you could almost be guaranteed that there is where moisture will seep through and cause the rusting to start again
I agree. When I did mine, I flanged my panels. I flanged both sides. I spot welded the one panel in, just like oem. 1/4 inch spot welds.
The adhesive side was also flanged.
I love panel adhesive.
The adhesive is available at any auto paint supply store.
SEM panel adhesive. 90 minute working time.
I'll get some pics of my truck and a stock number for the adhesive, today.
I agree. Panel adhesive is the way to go. I did my rear wheel wells on my 86.
I just received a new upper wheel arch repair panel for my 77. Have any recommendations for online locations for research for the panel adhesive approach(prep work required, techniques, etc)? Anyone care to write up a tech article on the subject if there's not one already? I had planned on welding it in, but now I'm thinking otherwise.
If I can spare some time, I will try and write something up. There are a number of different manufacturers for panel adhesive. Sem, Duramix, Speedgrip, etc...
On 1/4 panels & large panels, I use 40 minute set Speedgrip, as it allows the best repositioning / work time. You can get it in 1, 5, 15, 45 etc... set times. You need to have some method of holding the panel in place, such as cleco fasteners, pop rivets, clamps etc... to get a good job.
Speedgrip is from Norton, www.nortonautomotive.com
Not much in the way of technical advise on their site if I remember correctly.
Farm&fleet sells a panal repair tape deal... AL backed with really sticky anhesive... $4 for a 4"x60" roll... Its almost like a dynamat type product... Ill ask around a car audio forum, but its gotta be close...
Anyways I just did it temporary, to get through the winter... 4 layers of this stuff over the rotten rocker, and I heated the material with a hair dryer between layers
Works for now... looks like crap, but its holding up OK
Good luck
~Nate
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