I'm getting ready to do a front brake job on my wife's 03 Expy, and I'm planning on replacing the pads and rotors. This will be the first time I've done one on an Expy, so I have a couple of questions.

1. When compressing the piston on the caliper, is it necessary to open the bleeder valve to let out the brake fluid, or is it safe to just push the fluid back up the system? Years ago, when ABS started getting popular on disk brakes, I was told that compressing the piston without opening the bleeder valve would damage the ABS system. I watched a guy at an NTB do a brake job on a vehicle similar to my wife's, and he did not open the bleeder valve. He also did not bleed the brakes after changing everything out.

2. What are the best replacement pads and rotors for the vehicle? Please note, this vehicle us just a daily driver, no towing, no hard braking (I don't drive it much ) I'm not looking for high performance, just a good replacement.

Thanks.

Bryan

 

Come on Guys!!!! Someone out there have any feedback on this???

 

Can't really help out on this one. I had the dealer do the work. I can comment on the significant decrease in the brake dust problem. After the brake job, no more black front wheels.

In the past, I would just compress the piston. Not sure if it's good or bad. It sure made it easy.

 

I will respond to let you know I read it. I have always just compressed the piston usually using the old pads turned around and a large set of channel locks. However, I have not had to do my 03 exp yet.... wife drives it and only have 10k on it. I would search for the posts on ceramic pads though--heard they reduce the dreaded black dust.

 

perhaps i can help. I did the front pads on mine for the first time with a friend a couple weeks ago. I went to rockauto.com and ordered a set of raybestos ceramic pads. Cost about $70 for the set but defiently worth it. Before you compress the caliper take the top off the brake fluid resevoir. Then take a big c clamp and compress the caliper. you can hear it pop when its ready to be taken off. dont forget to take the metal clip on the outside pad. then remove the caliper and replace the pads. i can go into detail if you would like.. if youve never done pads before.. just let me know

 

I did my pads and rotors this weekend on my 03 Expy. I just removed the cap off of the Master and compressed the caliper with a pad spreader from Sears ($8) that I bought a while ago. It was a pretty simple job, other than the fact that my front rotors were rusted on and it required several pretty hard whacks with a hammer to get them off. I paid $225 for premium rotors and pads at NAPA and it took me less than an hour to do. Let me know if you have any questions.

Matt

 

Along with the abouve comments I would suggest you to Buy Power slot rotors and the lowest dusting pad available. I would also be ready to bang the hell out of the rotor or use the large bolt method, incase the rotors are hard to remove.

There is a how to on this site for the F150, which is very close to our setup.

 

Why Powerslot rotors?

 

Why Powersots, price they were $200 for 2 rear rotors from Tire Rack, also went with the Hawk Lts pads. The "How to" article calls for using Performance Plus brake rotors which seem great with good customer support. In addition i cleaned and painted the calipers Red, the truck is Red w/ grey body cladding (faded badly).

 

my powerslot rotors (rear only, the fronts are fine) started rusting after two days of installation,, I got them installed two days ago and havent driven the truck yet,,It has been very humid and rainy here in nyc. Will keep you guys posted on their proformance, also went with akebono ceramic pads.

 

Also, is the rusting normal? should i do or have done something to prevent it? Thanks in advance

 

Alot of times if the vehicle sits for a couple of days in humid conditions, there will be a very light accumulation of surface rust, but as soon as you drive the vehicle and apply the brakes it will disappear. You can also get the rotors cad or zinc plated and that will prevent rust from appearing.

 

When ABS first came out, the control system was such that pushing a large amount of fluid back through the system wasn't acceptable. However, with current systems it is no problem.

The only concern here is that the fluid that you're pushing back into the system has been sitting in the caliper cylinder and getting heated and potentially dirty. It would be best to use the bleed nut to evacuate this fluid from the system as you push the cylinder back in. It requires some coordination, because if you let off on the pressure that you're applying to push the piston in, air can get sucked into your system and you'll have a soft pedal until someone bleeds it out for you.

One other tip - keep an eye on the master cylinder level as you push the caliper piston in. You don't want to overflow the master cylinder and have brake fluid dripping on the engine as it is fairly corrosive.

Paul

 

I'll try this here without starting a new thread.
I'm going to do a 2nd brake job on my 03/EB/5.4 (yeah already, actually got the stealership to do the 1st ones practically free).
Now that we all went through the brake dust, bang off the rotor problems and its been a while, Please let me hear who is using what brand and type of pads with good results.
Come on guys...chime in. I've got to get this done and want to make it last a while! Surely metallic, right. Raybestos?? All input is appreciated.
Thank You!

 

i just got powerslot rotors n akebono ceramic brake pads installed for rear wheels only, its only been a few days but so far i notice much smoother braking, no noise or any issues besides the slight layer of rust that went away after driving(see above). i have a 03 eb5.4 as well. ive read about a softer peddle with ceramic pads, but cant really notice a difference maybe my old rear brakes were really horrible, but new brakes stop quicker as well. id recommend them