5.4 Questions
Bolt on mods don't add up 1 for 1. The package may say 15 hp for this and 10 hp for that, but you won't see 25 hp when both are added... you'll be lucky if improvement is higher than 20 hp after adding a few bolt ons. The power curves move higher in the rpm band with many of these bolt ons, thus killing your towing performance.
The 5.4 is a capable engine and will handle up to the GCWR for your truck otherwise Ford wouldn't have said so. The way I read your post it seems you're looking at how to make the 5.4 act like a 6.8... money is what you need.
I'm gonna sell the 5.4 down the river with this comment: if you want the power without spending the $3500+ for a supercharger, the V-10 is the way to go.
-Kerry
I have some recommendations then. Open up the intake and exhaust as wide as you can. Piece it together over time if you'd like... the big item is the programmer, it will be a big help.
1 - Predator programmer
2 - FIPK (you choose... I don't have a brand pref, others might)
3 - TB (if available... the F150 75mm TBs may work; the 80mm Holley may fit, as well)
4 - MAF (I'm leaning towards a Lightning 90mm housing with the stock MAF, unless you swap injectors)
5 - Cat-back exhaust (Your choice)
6 - Headers (if available... see my comment about Mustangs)
at this point you'll get a bit more exotic...
new cams and new heads (Comp, Crane, Crower for cams... heads are pretty much exotics, all priced pretty high compared to the push rod stuff)
true duals (drop the 'Y' pipe and do an 'X' or 'H' for better flow)
injectors (MAF/ECU may need a recal/reprogram, usually only do this if you have heads and/or a supercharger)
things to remember -
most everything that fits a 4.6 sohc will fit the 5.4 sohc... problem being most 4.6 stuff was designed for the Mustang/F150, not the SuperDuty. Custom fab may be necessary when using those parts...
Do some research, look into the 4.6/5.4 sections of some of the Mustang Forums and magazines... you'll learn a lot about these motors which may benefit you when you upgrade yours.
Sorry for coming out at you like I did. Hope this helps you.
-Kerry
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I have some recommendations then. Open up the intake and exhaust as wide as you can.
The only "aftermarket" head available at any price is the Ford SVO 2V head, which flows only marginally better than a stock PI head and doesn't fit with the PI intake anyway....
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... after all, aren't aftermarket systems designed to open and speed exhaust flow for more power? Open it up with a good set of equal length runner headers for scavenging, many of these will actually improve the low end torque by lengthening the runner. Your restriction will still be the stock cats. You'll keep those, then replace the exhaust from those back. You won't lose the initial torque as the exhaust still backs up at the cats.That programmer can really help when you get more into the mods. By requesting a tuner to take all your mods into account, they can set you up with a tune that'll actually produce more torque for what you have than the stock tune would come close to. The new custom tune will take advantage of your upgrades.
The only "aftermarket" head available at any price is the Ford SVO 2V head, which flows only marginally better than a stock PI head and doesn't fit with the PI intake anyway....
Like I said before: MUSTANG.VT engineering, Patriot, Fox Lake Racing... do a search for modular motor heads, and keep in mind that what ever fits a 4.6 SOHC Windsor will fit a 5.4 SOHC. Not a whole bunch of companies, but they exist.
The heads start out as factory PI heads, then the company performs their magic and charge you some bucks. I haven't found a completely new casting, just a porting and polishing of the old design... but these flow much better than the SVO heads.
I picked up a mail order catalog (Summit) and found a set of Patriot Performance complete 4.6 heads for about $1300 in the Mustang section. They require all the other non-stock stuff to make them work (intake and aftermarket valve covers)....not for your street truck.
Exotics exist... they may be just a fancy machined PI head, but when they cost me an arm & leg, from a company that's not well known, they're exotic to me.
-Kerry

As far as the 'big as you can' theory we aren't talking about the average daily driver here, we're talking about pulling a 10,000 lb trailer and anything that lowers low end torque output is a detriment. Something like a great big t.b. will kill some tq down low while offering maybe a few hp up top where its worthless for towing.
... and you know you're not completely right.From dictionary.com -
af·ter-mar·ket
n.
The market for parts and accessories used in the upkeep or enhancement of a previous purchase, as of a car or computer.
UPKEEP or ENHANCEMENT... is adding someone elses modified OEM product not enhancing your vehicle?
About my exotic comments perhaps I am starving for a large sized aftermarket, such as the Windsor's of the push rod variety have. To me, if it's not a large scale production item, it's exotic. Let's just be reasonable and agree to disagree.
Work with me here, I know the tech stuff & some machining... not the production side. You have the experience/background to know better, then give your technical input... don't simply tell me I'm wrong about "aftermarket & exotic" and "don't open it up." Tell us what makes for better low end torque using what we can get our hands on. Not everybody is gonna be willing to dremel their heads or know what to say to a machine shop to get what they want, or know what they are looking at when they do.
I did mention that bolt-ons tend to move performance higher in the rpm band...way back in my first post. It's back to the lack of add ons that's gonna kill my argument here. If we had intakes designed for towing then we could suggest to add one of those as well as the headers...maybe a cam grind for that and an ECU mod. My thought is, since we don't have that, and no supercharger right off the bat, open all of the available systems up. I'm grasping at straws here... but I'm thinking the torque down low will stay the same and have an even higher peak, while not entirely in a useable range... it won't simply disappear. Then when ported and polished heads are added the peak of the curves will return closer ot the lower band they once occupied. The intake seems to be the big problem here and I'm hoping the headers will take care of that.
Why aren't we talking daily driver? Perhaps we should ask Zip what other plans he has for this truck outside of towing? This is partly why we are here... to not only learn, but help others. So Zip, is this strictly a tow vehicle or what?
-Kerry
IMHO re-gear to 4.10 and you'll be set. Torque multiplication is a very nice thing, you'll get way more pulling power from a re-gear than any bolt-on. Unless you bolt-on a blower.
I've got a blower, but I've had the blower belt break while I was towing. Remove the belt = "regular" 5.4 for me. With the 4.10s, it still tows our 7000-lb boat/trailer very well. And I've got a non-PI motor, rated at just 235hp.
BTW - she tows quite nicely indeed with the blower. It gives me a very flat torque curve, around 400 lb-ft or more rear-wheel torque from 2500rpm on up.







