Correct hitch for towing
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 547
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From: Tennessee
Correct hitch for towing
Hello-
I recently traded a perfectly good 2003 F150 (4.6L) for a 2003 F250 (5.4L, 3.73 gears) due to the fact that my wife and I decided to buy a 27-30 foot travel trailer.
The F250 should, I believe, be perfectly well able to accomplish this task, but I have noticed that there seems to be quite a bit of discussion here over whether one should use the stock Ford hitch that came with the truck, or go with a 'load leveling hitch" (Please excuse me if I have these details incorrectly- new to the large camper game).
Are there compelling reasons for changing over from what already came stock on the vehicle?
I recently traded a perfectly good 2003 F150 (4.6L) for a 2003 F250 (5.4L, 3.73 gears) due to the fact that my wife and I decided to buy a 27-30 foot travel trailer.
The F250 should, I believe, be perfectly well able to accomplish this task, but I have noticed that there seems to be quite a bit of discussion here over whether one should use the stock Ford hitch that came with the truck, or go with a 'load leveling hitch" (Please excuse me if I have these details incorrectly- new to the large camper game).
Are there compelling reasons for changing over from what already came stock on the vehicle?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
I assume the factory hitch is the one mounted on the frame rails and not the bumper mount. I would not use a bumper mount except for light loads and the bumper is probably too high anyway.
So, assuming you have the 2 inch or larger frame rail mount...
You night be able to tow your trailer with the frame hitch only. But, a 27 to 30 travel trailer can weigh somewhere around 8,000#s, my 29 footer has a GVWR of about 8,000#.
The problem with just using a regular ball mount is that 1) the rating is possibly too low anyway.
2) the tail of the truck will probably be low which will cause poor handling.
3) The ride will be bouncy and more prone to sway.
A Weight Distributing hitch will spread the tongue weight out to ALL axles of the truck and trailer. This will lead to a more level load and improvements of all the above problems.
I have towed trailers both ways with my truck and the WD hitch is the way to go if you plan to do more than a 100 miles or so. You will be MUCH more relaxed at the end of the drive and it is safer for all involved.
I recommend a properly rated WD hitch and a antisway kit. With these, your trailer will almost feel like it is part of your truck and handle much better.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
So, assuming you have the 2 inch or larger frame rail mount...
You night be able to tow your trailer with the frame hitch only. But, a 27 to 30 travel trailer can weigh somewhere around 8,000#s, my 29 footer has a GVWR of about 8,000#.
The problem with just using a regular ball mount is that 1) the rating is possibly too low anyway.
2) the tail of the truck will probably be low which will cause poor handling.
3) The ride will be bouncy and more prone to sway.
A Weight Distributing hitch will spread the tongue weight out to ALL axles of the truck and trailer. This will lead to a more level load and improvements of all the above problems.
I have towed trailers both ways with my truck and the WD hitch is the way to go if you plan to do more than a 100 miles or so. You will be MUCH more relaxed at the end of the drive and it is safer for all involved.
I recommend a properly rated WD hitch and a antisway kit. With these, your trailer will almost feel like it is part of your truck and handle much better.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Tennessee
weight distributing hitches
Thanks for the info.
After doing a very cursory web search, I get the impression that a weight distributing hitch with the sway control optional add on will run about $400- does that sound about right? I think I got that from hitchfinder.com, and both Reese and Draw Tite were in the same ball park.
That leads me to another question- there are "round bar" types, and "trunnion" types- and they all come in your choice of tongue weight capacities.
Which of the two types is preferred, and as far as the tongue weight capacity goes, why would you not go for the 1000 pound (or max) variety? Is there a reason not to? Its only a few dollars more.....
your comments are appreciated-
After doing a very cursory web search, I get the impression that a weight distributing hitch with the sway control optional add on will run about $400- does that sound about right? I think I got that from hitchfinder.com, and both Reese and Draw Tite were in the same ball park.
That leads me to another question- there are "round bar" types, and "trunnion" types- and they all come in your choice of tongue weight capacities.
Which of the two types is preferred, and as far as the tongue weight capacity goes, why would you not go for the 1000 pound (or max) variety? Is there a reason not to? Its only a few dollars more.....
your comments are appreciated-
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 81
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My thought is to use a bar rated higher than your hitch weight. I have a 600lb hitch weight and a 1000lb set of bars. With the larger bars, I dont have to tighten them as much, and I am much less likely to bend or even break them. Plus if I go for a bigger trailer someday, I already have the bars!
My 27ft trailer weighs in at 6500lbs loaded, and the weight distribution and sway bar make driving much easier.
I have the square bar type bars, some say they are better, I dont think it matters.
My 2005 E350 V10 is rated to only 5000lb without a weight distribution hitch, it goes to 9200lb with a weight distribution hitch.
the 2003 F250 5.4l 3.73 is rated 13500 GCWR, 8000 for towing. (with an automatic.
see:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/20...uty_1.html#250
down the page aways
My 27ft trailer weighs in at 6500lbs loaded, and the weight distribution and sway bar make driving much easier.
I have the square bar type bars, some say they are better, I dont think it matters.
My 2005 E350 V10 is rated to only 5000lb without a weight distribution hitch, it goes to 9200lb with a weight distribution hitch.
the 2003 F250 5.4l 3.73 is rated 13500 GCWR, 8000 for towing. (with an automatic.
see:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/20...uty_1.html#250
down the page aways
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,955
Likes: 50
From: Mesa
check out www.etrailer.com or www.rvwholesalers.com Rvwholesalers has the Equalizer brand hitch for $399 delivered or the Reese Straight Line Dual Cam for $422. Both would be excelent hitches. 1000 pound bars should be fine. They also have a good price on brake controllers.
For great RV info check out www.rv.net/forums
The 5.4L 3.73 combo isn't the best for heavy towing. Don't be in any hurry with your rig.
For great RV info check out www.rv.net/forums
The 5.4L 3.73 combo isn't the best for heavy towing. Don't be in any hurry with your rig.
Last edited by V10man; Feb 16, 2006 at 02:05 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,511
Likes: 0
From: Marion, VA
I tow my 25' travel trailer with myt 04 F150 4X4 with the 5.4 (3 valve engine) and 3.73 gears and it does fine. I use the Equalizer brand hitch and Prodigy brake controller and they work great. I also used Rvwholesalers.com for both the hitch and the controller. I have 600 lb bars but I have an ultralite. Don't go to heavy on the bars because they are springs and they need to give. The hitch cost me $399 delivered and the controller was $99. I got them both in about 3 days. If you have particular questions, they are most helpful on the phone. They also have outstanding prices on new travel trailers and you can equip and price them online.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
I don't know which brands are better. All I have owned is my EazLift WD hitch and sway bar, and a handfull of the regular 2 inch "stingers" or hitch *****. I think my Eaz lift WD hitch cost something like $200+, and $100 for the sway bar way back in 1998.
The Eaz Lift has round bars and come in different sizes. The manual says to choose a size that is equal or a bit greater than the expected tongue weight you plan to have.
If the bars are too small, you will have to tighten them too much and the ride will be bouncy. If they are too large, I would guess that the ride might be harsh. You can buy new bars if you need to change.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
The Eaz Lift has round bars and come in different sizes. The manual says to choose a size that is equal or a bit greater than the expected tongue weight you plan to have.
If the bars are too small, you will have to tighten them too much and the ride will be bouncy. If they are too large, I would guess that the ride might be harsh. You can buy new bars if you need to change.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Utah County, UT
For the price of bars, I'd get the size you need for the trailer. As previously stated, to small, doesn't help any, to large and you'll end up with a pretty rough ride. Then if you trade or buy a new trailer, trade bars with it. Who knows, your next trailer may be a 5th wheel, then you wouldn't need bars anyway.
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