So after doing some searching on net and such, I have found enough information that I think I am going to rebuild my tranny myself with an extreme kit and save a few bucks (hopefully). Question is has anyone ever rebuilt their tranny before and any insight on things you wish you'd known or had prior to starting the rebuild? Looking at an extreme duty package with billet converter, red eagle clutches, kolene steels, etc.. from Transmission Exchange Co. This is part of my measure twice and cut once method. Seems pretty straight forward, I have rebuilt many things just haven't ever done a tranny yet.

 

Find the fluid diagram so you can pressure check all clutch pacs during and after assembly. Shimming clutch pacs and leaks in lip seals are the main problems that I can think of.

 

You'll be amazed how easy automatic trannies are to disassemble and reassemble. In my opinion, they're much easier to do than a manual and it's funny that a lot of people are SCARED to take one apart.

As far as clutches go, most manufacturers have a pretty wide specification in what the air gap should be. Most are somewhere between .035" and .080". Pretty easy to eye-ball.
Oh and take your time on putting clutch pistons in their bores...the seals can easily be flipped and cut.
As far as the teflon sealing rings go, use HOT water (like out of a coffee maker) and soak the seals for a few minutes to soften them up a bit. You can lightly stretch them and get them in their grooves. Use a section of coolant bottle (or similar plastic) and a few hose clamps to wrap the new seals once they're installed to "shrink" them back to their original size.

Also, the torrington bearings are directional. There is a "cupped" end. Make sure you put them in the same direction they came out or you'll end up machining stuff.


My final tips to you are to use a BIG bench and make sure all of the clutches are engaged in the splines on their respective hubs before going any further. Lay out the parts IN ORDER and disassemble/assemble one clutch pack at a time (unless you've got an input drum that has multiple clutches in it).

Once you've got the pump started back in, make sure you can still turn the input shaft as you tighten it. If the input shaft binds as you're bolting in the pump, you've got a stacking problem and you've got to take it apart and find out which part is keeping your stacked height too high. Don't assume it will work....it will destroy it.

Cody

 

Good post Cody, I'm gunna print and save it.

 

Absolutely, good info there Cleatus12r. Done 1 or 2 of them eh?

 

Thanks for the compliment. I pretty much rebuild auto transmissions for a living (although they're GM transmissions...UGH)

Cody

 

Are the new Allisons any good?

 

That's something I'd like to know as well.

 

That is great news to hear, I am going to order one today or tomorrow. Comes with ASGC manual on it so it should cover everything, at least is should at over 100 pages.

 

Just ordered the complete kit, will let you know when it arrives.

 

Funny you should ask. Surprisingly, yes. I have only had to pull one apart due to a true failure on a stock truck. On a modified truck (90 HP and up) if you are hard on it, C2 clutch goes away pretty quick and you can lose 4th gear pretty easy. On the other hand, the pumps can be noisy, but they're not too awful to replace.

Otherwise, to tell you the truth, I would absolutely LOVE to have a transmission control module engineered to make one work behind my PSD. Shifts are perfect, the reverse gear is LOW, and they are tough as nails!!

Cody

 

Thank you Cleatus. Your input is greatly appreciated.