Long story but I'll try to keep it short - My Ford Experience

<o></o>
3 Months ago I needed a car ASAP for a new job, so I saw an Ad for a 99 Ford Taurus SE 24V DHOC and went in to test drive it. It drove okay so I bought it, wouldn't have been my first choice but I needed a car to get me to work. Car had 79k miles on it, body looked good, engine sounds and looks good.

<o></o>
5 minutes after I drive off, check engine light comes on, car was purchased as is but I called the dealer and they said I must has filled up my tank with the car still running (mind you this happened right after I left the lot and the car already had a full tank). So, I was told to bring it back for a mechanic to look at it, this guy put the computer on it blocked me from seeing the LCD screen with his head like he didn't want me to see anything. Then he said "Yep, it's the gas cap", he reset it and I was on my way...Got on the high way and the check engine light came on again, so I decided to take it to my own mechanic during the weekend. Two days later, I drove to the mall to pick up a few Christmas gifts, got to the parking lot, parked the car...try to straighten my steering wheel but it wouldn't move. I thought maybe the front tire was locked by a rock or something. Got out to look and the driver side front tire was hanging off. Axle broken and lower ball joint broken. Took toll guy a good hour to get it on the truck, so here I am Christmas eve without and car and about to pay 500 bucks to get it fixed.
<o></o>

While I was at the mechanic, I asked him to do the state inspection...another 70 bucks, failed inspection because of o2 sensors. He said that was why the check engine light was on. Decided to drive it a couple of days before getting them fixed...it was showing 4 bad sensors on his computer, he wanted $120 for each replacement plus labor.
<o></o>

I came home and researched 02 sensors and decided to stop at my pep boys and purchase 4 of them. I was only able to find 3 so I replaced them...took it to another mechanic but he couldn't find the fourth one either. Reset check engine light and but it came on again, he scanned the computer and found the gas cap to be bad. Went to ford dealership the next day and picked on up, replaced it, and reset the computer AGAIN. I was happy now...hoping that was the end off it.
<o></o>

3 days later, ABS light starts flashing...comes on, sometimes stays for a couple of minutes sometimes for seconds. One time it stayed for about 30 minutes and check engine light came back on as soon as ABS light went off. I was PISSED. I took it back to the second mechanic and he tried to scan the ABS module but the computer wouldn't read. He said I have a bad ABS module, didn't even ask how much it will cost...Had enough. Between each check engine light reset, axle, ball joint, o2 sensors and gas cap, I was up over $1000. Now, I didn't want to sell it because I wasn't going to get the money I've invested in it.
<o></o>

A couple of days later, I'm doing 60 mph and the car stalls, engine just shuts off...I managed to pull over, turn the key off and restart again, came right up. started driving again...4 days later I’m on a highway doing 70mph and it stalls again, pull over and it starts right away, couple of miles later, it stalls again but comes right up.

<o></o>
Computer scans show no problem codes, it's been stalling almost every time I driven it. However, it has gotten worst, now it stalls during low speed, not just high speed. When I try to go after a red light, It barely moves, It sometimes move very slow before picking up speed again or it dies right away. I have no clue what to do anymore, two weeks ago, spent 170 bucks to have my fuel ignitions replaced and fuel system completely cleaned but that just put more dent in my wallet. I was advised to check online forums because someone might have had the same problems I’m having. Me on the other hand, I’m thinking about setting the damn thing on fire in my backyard.

<o></o>

The car drive crappy, has no power, and feels like it's always going to stall.

<o></o>

Can anyone let me know if they know what might be going on? Any little help will be greatly appreciated. Mechanics don't know what to do anymore and I’m tired of spending more money.

 

your stalling problem is likely ignition related. the TFI module dies on those cars with some regularity. replacing the module is easy enough. usually the module in on the side of the dist. but later model cars have the module moved to the radiator core support. the lack of power problem may just be related to the engine not having its 60,000 mile tune up done. that tune up consists of replacing the timing belt, and a few other things i dont remember off hand(you know you are getting when three things happen, the first is losing your memory, and i forget what the other two are ). check out these links

www.shotimes.com
www.shoclub.com

these guys can help you further.

the taurus sho is a fun car to drive, and many sho owners have surprised alot of mustang and other hot rodders. these cars are overall nearly as reliable as nonsho taurus's, but they can be a bit tempermental if you dont follow the rules with these cars.

 

Hello- Welcome to FTE! Check out the list of tech forums we have on FTE. There is a wealth of information and expertise here to help you. There are a number of links in my sig below to help you also. Have fun!

 

Does the '99 Taurus even HAVE a tfi module? I don't think so...

Sounds like the crank or cam sensor is bad. The computer will lose the signal from it, and not realize the motor is still turning, therefor turning off spark AND fuel.

Could be other things too... bad fuel pump relay, bad connection somewhere, etc.

If it was a "dealer", I'd go back there immediately and start raising heck. Hand them the repair bills. I know you bought it "as-is" but the wheel falling off? That's severe. And now you have engine troubles? Even worse.

If nothing else, complain to the BBB.

Back to the problem at hand however: Does it have an RPM gauge? Does the RPM gauge drop to zero when it stalls or does it still read some RPMs until you full stop?

Problem is, it starts right up after a "fit". Now, if only it wouldn't start, we could do some quick diagnostics to figure out what the problem is

 

Well, thanks for the quick replies...

Up until this car started giving me problems, I didn't know what an o2 sensor was so i'm not too sure what the TFI module is so I will ask a mechanic to take a look at that.

I'm not too sure about the RPM gauge dropping to zero or not so i'm about to take a ride for observation. I will also look into the crank and cam sensor. Thanks again for the info....anyone else got any ideas or things to check out?

 

If you can, get the mechanic to hook up a spark/fuel tester and then drive it for a while. The tester can tell if there is no spark or fuel which is a big telling point about what the root cause is.

Another question: When it stalls, does it chug or run rough for a second and THEN stall, or is it dead-all-at-once and that's it?

 

I've had several Vulcan engined Sables and a Duratec and I'm still looking for the first timing belt. Never tuned one up with under 100K and never had a problem.

Are you sure this is not a flood car?

 

Ooh... good point! All these things could be flood-related.

 

while the base engine is a vulcan engine, the heads are yamaha, and use overhead cams, unlike the vulcan engines, and have a timing belt to run the cams that needs to be replaced at 60k miles. and if this is a flood car, that will cause some of the problems listed.

 

Carfax didn't show anything about flood car before I bought it so I can't tell for sure.

 

The car is a Ford Taurus SE V6 24 DOHC, and it has the Duratec engine not the vulcan.

 

I drove the car for about 2 hours today and I think I found the problem.

I remember with my previous car, at one point it kept on stalling just like my current problem. If I turned the engine off and on again it started right away, then stalled again. However, this only happend for only a couple of days and the car stopped starting all together.

The problem was my ALTERNATOR. I suspect my current problem to be the problem because as I was driving today, the car was driving perfectly for about 30 minutes until I turned on my head light. Two minutes after the head light went on the car starting slowing down like it was about to stop again so I immediately shut off the headlight...the car didn't stall. So I think it might be my alternator not charging the battery enough. Also, a week ago I was parked at work and decided to turn on my AC, 5 minutes later the car started rattling almost as if it would have stalled if I were to be driving it...The problem stopped after I turned off the AC, I didn't think much of it then but now that I think about it, The car might be stalling alot before I use the heater a lot.

Anyone think my suspisions might be right? If so, is there a way to test the alternator at home or can the mechanic test it out with a device?

 

My 24 valve 3.0 DOHC engine does not have Yamaha heads and has a timing chain. The Yamaha engine was only in the SHO.

 

That's right.

The 3.0L DOHC Yamaha SHO engine is not the same thing as the 3.0L DOHC Duratec.

Has the fuel pressure been checked?

 

I just had the fuel injecters replaced and the entire fuel system cleaned.