Late model I-beam swap
#1
#2
Their is different lengths through the years up to 96 but not to much. Just measure My I beams and radius arms are out of a 79. I paid $65 bucks for the beams, arms rotors and calipers from a junk yard. then got new rotors and calipers and bearings and brake hoses for a chevy 4x4 to make it work i had Less than 250 bucks in it ang got disc brakes
#5
#6
1999stroke, You are posting to a darn near 8 year old thread.
I recommend that you make a plan, buy a good donor truck so that you will get ALL the parts needed to do the upgrade. I have done a few, & helped with many front end upgrades. Every time someone come back here complaining that something didn't work he bought parts not a complete donor.
This works best for a 2wd F100 truck. If yours has the FE engine look for a 73-76 donor that has a transmission like yours or that you want to upgrade to. A 302 or I-6 you can go to 79 with a bolt hole swap. Let us know if you have more questions.
John
I recommend that you make a plan, buy a good donor truck so that you will get ALL the parts needed to do the upgrade. I have done a few, & helped with many front end upgrades. Every time someone come back here complaining that something didn't work he bought parts not a complete donor.
This works best for a 2wd F100 truck. If yours has the FE engine look for a 73-76 donor that has a transmission like yours or that you want to upgrade to. A 302 or I-6 you can go to 79 with a bolt hole swap. Let us know if you have more questions.
John
#7
This question has been brought up a couple times, and there are two main reasons I-beams past 1980 won't work-
First, they are different lengths. One will leave the wheel sticking out of the fender, and the other will be tucked way in.
Second, the steering box and linkage was moved in front of the axle in 1980.
First, they are different lengths. One will leave the wheel sticking out of the fender, and the other will be tucked way in.
Second, the steering box and linkage was moved in front of the axle in 1980.
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#8
The late model Ball joint beams are front steer, and all King pin models are rear steer. So it is no where near bolt-in.
If your adventurous you could weld in the cross member, but the CV is a better option in my opinion. I thought about doing it with a 2-3 inch Z, drop beams, and coil overs for my project truck. In the end I decided while it maybe cool from a Ford truck idea. It would not really do what I wanted to do.
If your adventurous you could weld in the cross member, but the CV is a better option in my opinion. I thought about doing it with a 2-3 inch Z, drop beams, and coil overs for my project truck. In the end I decided while it maybe cool from a Ford truck idea. It would not really do what I wanted to do.
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