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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #1  
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I-beam question

Can I use i-beams and disc brakes from a 1994 model f-150 on my 1974 f-100 or any of the brake parts?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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No, all the parts are different. The i-beams are shorter on the 94. The streering knuckle is infont not behhind the axels. The rotors, calipers, and wheel berrings are differnt. What are you trying to do?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 11:07 PM
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Hmm... it'd be an interesting project to clip the 94's front frame and graft it on your 74. It's alot of work but in the end, doable.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Hmm... it'd be an interesting project to clip the 94's front frame and graft it on your 74. It's alot of work but in the end, doable.
If I decided to put that much work into it I would just do the Crown Vic swap.

Originally Posted by HIO Silver
No, all the parts are different. The i-beams are shorter on the 94. The streering knuckle is infont not behhind the axels. The rotors, calipers, and wheel berrings are differnt. What are you trying to do?
Was just looking to upgrade to better brakes. Figured if the Later model I-beams would bolt in I could just use the later model brakes. I'll look into the Crown Vic swap a little more and possibly go that route in a few months. If the newer I-beams are just shorter, what issues would I run into trying to use them? Would there be any clearance issues or would it just change the track width of the front end?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 08:19 AM
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I was also thinking about this because there are a lot of lift kits for the newer 2wd I-beams due to them having ball joints instead of kingpens, and it is supposed to be a lot easier to lift them...I have even seen one lifted 8" with 40" tires. If the newer I-beams are shorter, couldnt you just get a set of wheels with more backspacing and/or wheel spacers to compensate for it? i know they make up to 3" wheel spacers. Also, i have seen crazy backspaced wheels that stuck out the fenders almost a foot...
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mdr617
I was also thinking about this because there are a lot of lift kits for the newer 2wd I-beams due to them having ball joints instead of kingpens, and it is supposed to be a lot easier to lift them...I have even seen one lifted 8" with 40" tires. If the newer I-beams are shorter, couldnt you just get a set of wheels with more backspacing and/or wheel spacers to compensate for it? i know they make up to 3" wheel spacers. Also, i have seen crazy backspaced wheels that stuck out the fenders almost a foot...
Using deep backspaced wheels or spacers is NOT a good idea. The further out you move the wheel in relation to the hub moves the load out too. What this does is shifts the load that the hub is carrying from the inner (large) bearing to the outter (small) bearing.
You WILL have wheel bearing failure over and over, not to mention not being able to align the front end. You won't be able to set the camber adjustment.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 09:29 AM
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I also would not recommend using a back space that does promote better geometry. My question is simple, will I see a clearance issue using teh later i-beams or will they even bolt in? is it possible the e series I-beams are longer?

I will only be running a 6 inch wheel on the front

I'm going to have a new rear end housing and axles built taht will accept late model mustang disc brakes. I'm thinking I might just do the CV swap and have a more modern brake option.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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The biggest diffence I can remeber is that the steering knuckle is in front of the crossmember, so unless you move a steering box up there the beams wont swap. Go look under a 94, you will see the beams are shaped very diffently, the radius arm and spring/shock tower is also diffent. You''ll have to mess with differnt/cutting springs to get your ride hight right. A mechanic told me the newer beams are shorter, they are also cast and not forged.

Personally I'm happy with the '74 disc brake I beam assembly I replaced the old drums with in my '69 f100.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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The newer beams are un-equal length (meaning one is shorter than the other) whereas the 60's to 70's beams are equal length. They are VERY different in shape and design and will not interchange without a bunch of custom fabrication. The mounting points for our beams are out under each frame rail. The mounts are much more inboard on the newer trucks. One side is +/- 6" inside the frame with the other side being 6 or more inches inboard of that even.

As for the balljoints and cast vs. forged thing:
Our beams have kingpins that connect the spindles/uprights to them. The 80/81 (I think 82 as well) beams also had this. In 83 the beams went to ball joints. The beams were forged up until 88 with them going cast in 89.

I can go on and on about this if you'd like.


If you want better brakes look up putting the calipers off a thunderbird or other big car on these trucks. There are a few write-ups on here and elsewhere online that document the years of cars to use. I got the calipers for my truck (about $30 ea. without core at vatozone) but haven't put them on yet. The calipers bolt right in and have a larger piston.
 
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