My bendix at 69K original miles in a 68 CS started to leak, wtf seals only 35 years old. Since the box was like new inside I went overboard and had custom made bushing ordered that I installed and line reamed. At 0.0003" (yes 3/10 of one) clearance on bushings the sector turned with fingers tips. Added a seal kit that started to leak 8 months and 3,000 miles later. With two Ford rebuild kits (less input seals) pitman arm, one spare bushing and a slightly used HP hose I have a Bendix dust collector in the garage.
Charles your closer as i'm in Cali. Those boxes are not light to ship plus rebuilders want $150 to $250 core exchange alone.
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Wow the original factory seal lasted 69K and 35 years and the custom built one with those tolerances only 3K? That dosnt sound right for sure, not counting the $ you have in it and all that labor. I took my bendix out and put the F/S box in and changed the column when I had my engine out so it was easy in comparison to yours.

 

By the time I had 2 kits for $342, driving 128 miles (fuel and time?), $86 for a special reamer, 3 centering collars for the reamer shank machined about 2 hours on the lathe, removing twice with the loss of Neo steering fluid at $7 a quart. Yes everything looks like new on the input seal area and body but i'm at $490 minimum on parts without labor. Yes I have a complete Ford box system now, oops more money spent for Ford box, pitman arm and high pressure hose, time and labor free again. I would say I was into it for $700 plus because i'm stuborn and wanted that bendix to work. As I was a licensed aircraft mechanic (A&P) I would of thought a **** pot Bendix wouldn't be a problem, well as they're getting rare I went to a more common box as the truck is a keeper. I'm a watch me i'll get working person.
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I find this very interesting because I'm also seriously looking at replacing my "arm strong" steering system in my 68 but I wasn't sure how this all would apply to me. I have a 240 in mine......does that change anything? How will that effect engine temp, if any? I live in Oklahoma and know of a few salvage yards that still have old trucks. So, if I find a 68-78 with power steering on it, take everything including the steering column, rebuild it and I'm on the road.....anything else I should know? I have limited sources of income and even less limited amount of time. Everything is original and is in great shape (52,000 original miles) and I sure would hate to muck it up. Ya'lls input will be greatly appreciated – a salvage shopping list would be good too!

P.S. I would prefer to learn from others.......no bendix for me.

 

By the time I had 2 kits for $342, driving 128 miles (fuel and time?), $86 for a special reamer, 3 centering collars for the reamer shank machined about 2 hours on the lathe, removing twice with the loss of Neo steering fluid at $7 a quart. Yes everything looks like new on the input seal area and body but i'm at $490 minimum on parts without labor. Yes I have a complete Ford box system now, oops more money spent for Ford box, pitman arm and high pressure hose, time and labor free again. I would say I was into it for $700 plus because i'm stuborn and wanted that bendix to work. As I was a licensed aircraft mechanic (A&P) I would of thought a **** pot Bendix wouldn't be a problem, well as they're getting rare I went to a more common box as the truck is a keeper. I'm a watch me i'll get it working again person.
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Be sure you don't pick a worn out leaker Ford box which will get you in the future, check for the sector shaft / bushing loosness, a dirty this sucks job you'll have. Bring a puller to remove the drag link.
Get the pump, pump mount, Ford box (has 2 bolt cover) with pitman arm, hoses ( I would replace new), column, lower column mount bracket (on the firewall) and the neutral / backup light switch (under dash lower column. Everything above the column from the old will fit including your old wheel. Make a note of the wire colors in the connector block, different years had different colors. If you slide a metal or brass tube like a pen refill over the male pins this will retract barbs so you can pull the wires and pins from the connector then pull the turn indicator with wires out of the column. Clean, replace repack column bearings,they are press in and can be tapped out.
On FE V-8's you'll need the Ford box left motor perch some chop the old perch.
On your 6 cylinder I haven't a clue, someone will chime in. Get a new rag joint, adjust to 11 to 12 inch/lbs more torque at the center tight spot before installing box. If the pitman arms been removed apply anti-sieze and retorque a few days later as pitman will creap up the taper.
Nuff BSN 4 NOW, hope this helps.
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Okie65, The only problem your going to run into is finding a I6 P/S pump bracket. I looked for 9 months to find one for a friend. Then he changed his mind about the whole truck lol. If you cannot find one I,ll try and find this guy again for you. Good luck Charles