86 F150 sloppy steering
#1
86 F150 sloppy steering
In need of a little steering expertise...
I've got what I would call very loose steering. Lots of wheel movement before the wheels actually turn. The steering shaft, all the way to the steering box, moves true to the steering wheel so it appears the slop must be in the box. it's to the point that it's difficult to keep it in one lane without a lot of work.
Is there a proven way to check/test where the slop is? I'm not sure if it would be PS pump related or steering box related.
The pitman arm, drag link, tie rods and all steering linkage is new.
I noticed what appears to be an adjuster screw on top of the steering box. What does this screw do?
I've got what I would call very loose steering. Lots of wheel movement before the wheels actually turn. The steering shaft, all the way to the steering box, moves true to the steering wheel so it appears the slop must be in the box. it's to the point that it's difficult to keep it in one lane without a lot of work.
Is there a proven way to check/test where the slop is? I'm not sure if it would be PS pump related or steering box related.
The pitman arm, drag link, tie rods and all steering linkage is new.
I noticed what appears to be an adjuster screw on top of the steering box. What does this screw do?
#2
It's definitely box related.
The pump only provides assist for your inputs.
Is the frame cracked behind the steering box?
The screw and nut are for adjustment *at the factory*.
When a steering box wears out, it wears mostly straight ahead and a few degrees to each side.
If you adjust it for that, then making a tighter turn may bind and damage the box, and/or it might not return to center.
Check for frame problems by having someone turn the wheel while you look straight at the front of the truck.
Does the bumper on the drivers side move up and down?
The pump only provides assist for your inputs.
Is the frame cracked behind the steering box?
The screw and nut are for adjustment *at the factory*.
When a steering box wears out, it wears mostly straight ahead and a few degrees to each side.
If you adjust it for that, then making a tighter turn may bind and damage the box, and/or it might not return to center.
Check for frame problems by having someone turn the wheel while you look straight at the front of the truck.
Does the bumper on the drivers side move up and down?
#3
All you have to do is get someone to lightly wiggle the steering wheel back and forth(the amount of play it has) while you look the system over. When they are doing this the front tires will not be moving, while the steering wheel is moving alot. Just look to see where you are losing all that movement.
If the small steering shaft is moving back and forth going into the steering box, but the arm below coming out of the box is not moving, then it is in your steering box.
If the small steering shaft is moving back and forth going into the steering box, but the arm below coming out of the box is not moving, then it is in your steering box.
#5
That screw is not meant to adjust for wear compensation !
If all reacts accordingly with the steering shaft to the box, then it's the box. Time for a Redhead.
#6
Steering
So I recently acquired a 1986 F250.
and here's where this part of the Journey Begins I had the Nuckel replaced I replaced every tie rod I put on a used gearbox and at any high speeds 60+ it starts swerving or more correctly it pulls to aside I correct and then I have to correct again and it starts this whole back-and-forth I have checked everything and I am at a loss any help?
and here's where this part of the Journey Begins I had the Nuckel replaced I replaced every tie rod I put on a used gearbox and at any high speeds 60+ it starts swerving or more correctly it pulls to aside I correct and then I have to correct again and it starts this whole back-and-forth I have checked everything and I am at a loss any help?
Last edited by Dice; 02-09-2022 at 11:37 PM.
#7
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#8
So I recently acquired a 1986 F250.
and here's where this part of the Journey Begins I had the Nuckel replaced I replaced every tie rod I put on a used gearbox and at any high speeds 60+ it starts swerving or more correctly it pulls to aside I correct and then I have to correct again and it starts this whole back-and-forth I have checked everything and I am at a loss any help?
and here's where this part of the Journey Begins I had the Nuckel replaced I replaced every tie rod I put on a used gearbox and at any high speeds 60+ it starts swerving or more correctly it pulls to aside I correct and then I have to correct again and it starts this whole back-and-forth I have checked everything and I am at a loss any help?
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#9
I'm going out farther on a limb here - how are the shocks on your truck? My steering was very vague and washed all over the road. Replaced front shocks and it improved a LOT. Replaced the rear shocks and it's even better. THe truck was wandering all over. Now it's what I call reasonable for a 40 year old truck. Not rack & Pinion tight, but not scary loose anymore. I was never really sure where they truck was going before the new shocks.
#10
That has to be done so you know what you got.
If any of it is not in specifications it can cause issues.
Also why a used box? Same goes for any of the parts stores rebuilt ones don't do it.
Red Head or Blue Top rebuilt boxes are the only way to go now days. I got a blue top in my 81 F100.
Dave ----
If any of it is not in specifications it can cause issues.
Also why a used box? Same goes for any of the parts stores rebuilt ones don't do it.
Red Head or Blue Top rebuilt boxes are the only way to go now days. I got a blue top in my 81 F100.
Dave ----
#11
#12
The steering boxes on these trucks are marginal, at best. They wear, and the adjusting screw on top that will tighten most boxes, will not on these. The only thing you get with an adjustment is tight steering that will not return to center.
You either learn to live with the slop or buy a quality rebuilt box. I would really like to find an aftermarket box with tighter tolerances and a quicker ratio.
Other problems are the rag joint, the intermediate shaft always has some slop, and if you have a tilt wheel, there is some play in the tilt area. All added togerher, you have a lot of slop.
I love my truck, but the steering system is a big fail by Ford, IMO.
You either learn to live with the slop or buy a quality rebuilt box. I would really like to find an aftermarket box with tighter tolerances and a quicker ratio.
Other problems are the rag joint, the intermediate shaft always has some slop, and if you have a tilt wheel, there is some play in the tilt area. All added togerher, you have a lot of slop.
I love my truck, but the steering system is a big fail by Ford, IMO.
#13
The steering boxes on these trucks are marginal, at best. They wear, and the adjusting screw on top that will tighten most boxes, will not on these. The only thing you get with an adjustment is tight steering that will not return to center.
You either learn to live with the slop or buy a quality rebuilt box. I would really like to find an aftermarket box with tighter tolerances and a quicker ratio.
Other problems are the rag joint, the intermediate shaft always has some slop, and if you have a tilt wheel, there is some play in the tilt area. All added togerher, you have a lot of slop.
I love my truck, but the steering system is a big fail by Ford, IMO.
You either learn to live with the slop or buy a quality rebuilt box. I would really like to find an aftermarket box with tighter tolerances and a quicker ratio.
Other problems are the rag joint, the intermediate shaft always has some slop, and if you have a tilt wheel, there is some play in the tilt area. All added togerher, you have a lot of slop.
I love my truck, but the steering system is a big fail by Ford, IMO.
Dave ----
#14
I really love my truck, or I wouldn't have owned it 30 years. But, the steering box, it's components, and the weak frame mounting points, are all fails from Ford.
I spent all afternoon working on my truck to make it as mechanical as can be, and I still have more to go. It is a 35 year old truck.
My oldesr son has wanted it for years. My goal is to get it as mehanicially restored as possible, and let him do the body and paint, as he has been in paint and body work for over 20 years.
#15
As far as I can tell, each rebuilds the stock better than factory, but not as good as a good box would be.
I really love my truck, or I wouldn't have owned it 30 years. But, the steering box, it's components, and the weak frame mounting points, are all fails from Ford.
I spent all afternoon working on my truck to make it as mechanical as can be, and I still have more to go. It is a 35 year old truck.
My oldesr son has wanted it for years. My goal is to get it as mehanicially restored as possible, and let him do the body and paint, as he has been in paint and body work for over 20 years.
I really love my truck, or I wouldn't have owned it 30 years. But, the steering box, it's components, and the weak frame mounting points, are all fails from Ford.
I spent all afternoon working on my truck to make it as mechanical as can be, and I still have more to go. It is a 35 year old truck.
My oldesr son has wanted it for years. My goal is to get it as mehanicially restored as possible, and let him do the body and paint, as he has been in paint and body work for over 20 years.
Factory uses bushings that wear into the shaft and case and cause the slop, red & blue machine and install bearings inplace of the factory bushings.
How is that not better? They may not list a quick ratio box on the site but I would Call them to find out one way or the other..
Dave ----