I have a 03 V10 Crewcab XLT ....

I have noticed that it will not engage the 4x4 in Auto setting on the hubs. It will enage on the Locked setting but will that seting being on locked use more fuel while driving and will it be hard on the front end while driving?

Also what can I look for to fix this?

Thx in advance

 

Couple of things:

If you lock the hubs manually and get 4x4, the hubs are not locking (duh!).

The reason for the hubs not locking can be lots of things, we can work on that

Locking the hubs manually and driving like that will do NOTHING bad! Matter of fact, the weakest link is the needle bearing where the axle rides inside of the unitized wheel bearing - it only spins when the hub is NOT locked.

At this point, you have two choices. Fix the stock setup, or just replace the auto hubs with aftermarket manuals. Either way, reply back, and we'll help out

 

What is all involved for fixing the stock setup?

So there is no harm in driving all the time with hubs locked?

 

Fixing the stock setup depends on what's wrong. Could be lots of things. Describe when it locks (or doesn't unlock) again, I've been through my system a few times.

No harm in it. The little needle bearing that goes bad from getting dry (or very wet) that the front axle rides in is NOT turning with the hubs locked!

The slight (so small as to be unnoticable) wear on the gears/bearings and front u-joints is not worth worrying about.

The MPG drop is MAYBE .5MPG. If it's much more than that, you have bigger problems

 

OK It will engage 4x4 when the front hubs are in LOCKED position. It will not Engage when it is in AUTO position.

Do you have to reverse the truck for a stretch to get it to engage or leave it in Neutral for a bit?

 

oh ya the 4x4 light comes on in the dash when ever i turn the ****.

 

OK, there's two parts to the ESOF system. The transfer case and the hubs.

The transfer case is obviously working correctly, so we won't even go there.

What you have to do is this:

1) Jack up the front end.
2) Have someone turn the ESOF **** to 4x4 HI.
3) In the first 20 seconds, there will be vacuum applied to the hub. Spin the wheel for a few seconds, and check if the axle turns freely inside the hub by reaching around the back of the wheel, and turning the axle u-joint. If it spins freely, the hub isn't even trying to engage.

If there's a 20-second period where the hub locks, and then unlocks by itself, the hub itself is bad, and needs to be replaced (ford sells the entire thing as a unit, not parts).

If the hub doesn't even try to engage, either the hub is bad, or there is no vacuum getting to the hub.

Hook up a vacuum gauge to the hose that goes to the knuckle, and see if there is a 20-second vacuum pulse when engaging, and a 5-second disengage (after you turn off the **** you should get 5 seconds of vacuum). If you don't, trace back for vacuum leaks (broken/loose hoses) to the vacuum solenoid behind the battery. Check for vacuum at the solenoid (20 second engage, 5 second disengage again). No vacuum? Bad solenoid, OR the GEM module is not telling the solenoid to open.

Get back to me (us) with more questions, or results of the above testing. Reply to this thread, I'm subscribed so I immediately get any posts to it

art k.

 

I will try those suggestions tommorow ... thanks for all your help

 

Just curious, I'm having the same problem with my 01 250sd. I pilled the auto hubs apart and tried to clean them, but they still won't turn. So I guess I'm at the point of ebay or new manuals. The dealer wants $275.00 apiece for the autos. Are there not any bad issues with switching to manuals? What about this vacuum live I keep reading about? And can anyone reccomend where to buy the Warns??

Thanks in advance

 

I had the same ESOF issues a lot of others had. After checking it out I realized my right front wasn't engaging, left front seemed ok. I took the left front off, clean as a whistle, and worked fine. When I took the right front off, a cup of muddy water poured out, which explained why it wasn't working!!. I guess some where throught the trucks life the seal on the hub got moved enought to not do its job.

There are really no issues with going with the manual hubs. We had about 9" of snow here last night and they pulled the truck through without any problems. You just have to cap off some vacuum lines(there are different options here) and install the hubs and you are done. Its a easy fix, and gives me a lot more confidence.

By the way I went with the milemarker hubs.

 

If you go to manual hubs, you should cap off the vacuum lines at the knuckle (both sides).

Like ToaDisco said, got 12" here tonight, went through it like nothing. ESOF transfer case, Warn Premium hubs ... heaven.

 

Thanks for the input. Funny the way you said the right side was full of mud and water. Same here left was clean as all hell. I'm thinking thw premium warns at this point unless someone comes up with a good argument. Why would anyone waste the money on the standard warns when the premiums are only $25.00 more?? Anyway, thanks again guys.

Dan

 

I've had problems with the ESOF on my first Super Duty which was a '99. Turns out it was a vacuum leaked caused by a bad o-ring on the hub itself. Replaced the o-ring and everything worked fine.

 

I have a quick question. I just put the Warn premium hubs on, and it was pretty much a piece of cake. My question is, did you keep the factory chrome hub cap or is there something out there that looks better?

Just curious what others are doing, Thanks, Dan

 

Look at my gallery, "stock" is an overstatement