Just bought the Energy Suspension urethane body mount kit, instruction sheet is kinda sparse and part numbers molded into the mounts don't match the numbers on the sheet. Instructions also say to torque to factory specs but I can't find these specs anywhere. Anyone done this before and know the proper mount locations and torque specs off the top of their heads? Old mounts were badly rotted and I had to break some of the bolts to get the old mounts off. Any tips/advice out there?

 

Hey Guy,
I need to do mine also, what did you have to do to remove
the old ones?
any special tools or lifts?.


Dre'
1978 F-150, 460ci(750cfm,Edelbrock Performer,Dynomax Ceramic Coated headers,etc.)Auto-C6,3:70.1 - 9" Posi.

 

Afraid I'm not much help either but am very interested in continuing the thread and learning more. Did you get new bolts? Did they have a shank? (blank area at top of bolt). If so they would stop when in far enough. If you have to buy new bolts I would use at least grade 5.
1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything

 

I recently did mine and seem to remember the spec being ~40-50 ft/lbs.

 

The '79 shop manual details that : "tighten the attaching bolt to 40 ft-lb. for the for the front end sheet metal mounts or 50 ft-lb. for the front and rear cab mounts."

 

Dre: I didn't need anything except long box-end wrenches to break the bolts, they were very rusted. I used a hydraulic bottle jack to lift the cab just enough to get the old ones out and new ones in. And I replaced the bolts with Grade 5's. Wow, thanks to all who replied!!

 

Dre: The holes in the front clip and cab are considerably larger than the bolt diameter so a shank wouldn't have any effect there anyway. According to the partsman, the only thing to remember with polyurethane is re-torquing, at 100 and 1000 miles. Oh, I should mention that I lost the old bolts and washers (cups?)for the front clip between disassembly and finding the body mount kit so I am not sure if the front clip is properly mounted. Can anyone tell me if there is a proper method for mounting the front clip? I'm talking about washers and perhaps a shouldered bolt that the bottom washer and nut would butt up against. There are no bolts, nuts or washers in the kit.

 

Thanks bigsixguy.
Now I have to deside weather to use Rubber, or the Polys.


Dre'
1978 F-150, 460ci(750cfm,Edelbrock Performer,Dynomax Ceramic Coated headers,etc.)Auto-C6,3:70.1 - 9" Posi.

 

Hold On guys! Spoke with the retailer who sold me the mounts, the wrong mounts are in the package. Either that or the mounts are mis-identified on the instruction sheet. Kinda thot there was something funny when not one of the mounts even closely resembled the old ones. Parts Unlimited (Calgary, Alberta, Canada) has contacted Energy Suspension for either the proper instructions or a recall on the old sets. Wondered why my cab just sat there teetering like an old seesaw!

I'll info anyone who wants further info...

 

 

they will fax or email you a new instruction sheet with correct numbers.

 

Did you happen to get that new update instructions? I’m going to replace both radiator core support and cab supports. As I read, 40 for the radiator support and 50 for the four cab supports.

 

That was 21 years ago and hopefully they got that sorted out. On my 72 f250 4x4, I had to make new hardware for the cab and core support bushings. But, right now they are tightened down to 40 ft. lbs til I look for a more definitive answer.

 

Here's a guide for torqueing bolts by the size of the bolt grade.

 

As I understand it, Ford tightened the bolts in rubber to compress the rubber to cause the top and bottom washers with inter locking friction fit sleeves as a means to adjust the cab on the frame. Swage them like securing a bullet in the brass case as reloading might be a better anolgy.

Aftermarket polyurethane bushings do not readily compress like rubber, so the aftermarket uses the ftlb figures that Ford specified for mechanics re-installing cabs on frames in the shop ... ffigures devised I guess by trial to both securely fasten the bolts while not further compressing the rubber in the factory bushing/sleaved washer assembly. Over tightening those on a 2 year old truck could easily squease the sleaves and rubber and throw initial adjustment off.

I bought poly to do mine this past year, but while some of mine looked aged around the rubber, there was no sagging. I measured exposed bolt ends below the wasjher's welded nuts, assuming that when new Ford used same length bolts left to right and bolted a straight new cab to a new straight frame.... exposed thread length should have been the same left to right, though it would change front to rear because bushing heights change. How I found out that during initial build, the right rear corner bushing was tightened too far and a good 3/16" more bolt was exposed. Measuring from cab floor to truck frame anf comparing numbers confirmed it. I loosened all, jacked the cab a 1/4" on that point and slipped in two 1/8" thick 3" OD bushings which had a 1/2" center hole slotted to the edge, above the OEM bushing sleaved washer below the cab floor ... then lowered it .... perect fix... then I tightenerd my bolts to the Ford torque v alues. To add life saving support to my rubber bushings, I applied a ss band clamp to each upper one to act as a girdle, adjusted tight enough to stay in place.

The poly was cheap, they were unused bought from a fellow whom never used them and sold his dent. I'll park them on a shelf until / if ever needed.