When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I always re-clean everything. For that reason I do not allow them to put the oil gallery plugs in the block and do it myself after cleaning.
A simple gun cleaning bore brush is not expensive. Check out your local gun shop or wally world. You can get various size brushes to fit the passage sizes.
I always clean my fresh crank and blocks with good old fashion detergent and hot water before assembly. It's a must, and is has been recommended for as long as I can remember. Hook a hose right to your hot water tank. The oil passages shouldn't have any major crud in them, probably just some fine machining residues, maybe some solvents, or cooling fluids. The gun cleaning kit will work best for sure. Make SURE you get it dry quickly with compressed air and immediately wipe it all down with a CLEAN lint free and oil soaked cloth. I'm a fanatic about clean when assembling engines.
I like the PW idea.
I use a farm sprayer to push mineral spirits through the passages.
I add a small valve on the suction hose so I can regulate the amount of solvet that is discharged.
I'm not trying to say I know the best way or anything, but I can't believe nobody else has said to clean freshly machined parts with soap (detergent) and hot water. Every book I've read, or builders I've talked and worked with have said this.
I'm not trying to say I know the best way or anything, but I can't believe nobody else has said to clean freshly machined parts with soap (detergent) and hot water. Every book I've read, or builders I've talked and worked with have said this.
Yeah! You said it in post #10. You were right then and your are right now. But the bore brushes and solvents and cleaning patches get out things that soap and water does not. And pressure dislodges even more, so when the time comes, use them all.