if your using a nylon bushing you will not have to remove the brass bushings you can replace the pivot bushings if you get energy suspension pivot bushings all you have to do is burn the old bushings out leave the old outer shell in the axle pivot clean it out real well lube with grease supplied they push right in.

 

I wanted to follow up for those of you gave advice. I finally put the front end back together. What started out as a seemingly simple king pin replacement turned into a lengthy, costly experience - yet my front end is very responsive now If I have any advice to someone tinkering with pulling the king pins : take the whole I-beam and spindle out as a unit and bring to a machine shop! I had new pivot bushings installed, new spindle bushings installed (bronze), and I replaced the tired old coil springs. The new spings appeared shorter than the old (before install), but it actually rides higher than before. The slop in my steering hasn't disappeared. I still have the rag joint and gear box to look at. Overall handling and steering response has significantly improved. Thanks for all your help on this job!!

 

 

I'm trying to the same thing and having the same problems you are right this moment. My king pin on driver's side has some play, and my steering has been getting pretty squirrely, so I decided to go ahead and bang out the king pin. My trucks a '67 F100, and I'm pretty damn sure these king pins are original. Propane torch for about an hour followed by four hours of banging on the damn thing and it didn't budge a single bit! That propane torch isn't worth a damn! Anyways, I decided to pull the ibeams as well, and after getting the nut that attaches to the bolt that goes into the bottom of the spring, I found out that I would have to detach the nut on the radius arm and lower the two as a unit in order to get the bit bolt under the spring out (it's stuck and I have no way to hammer on it with the spring in the way). The cotter pin on the radius arm nut was seriously deteriorated and wouldn't come out even with heat, so I trimmed it as close to the nut as possible and started torque-ing away at the nut and lo-and-behold that damn nut stripped... it's not moving anymore, just spinning in place, and I HAVE to get it off, so I'm having to cut the nut into two pieces with a Dremel tool in order to get the axle off. Talk about a project gone bad!I'm hoping that it was just the nut that stripped and not the threads on the radius arm itself.

Add in the fact that when I took off the front driver's side drum, I found that my wheel cylinder had been leaking and had soaked the pads, it made a wonderful day even better...

Greg
67 F100 CCS 390 cruise-o

 

Tetraruby: What did machine shop charge for the work?

Raul
w/ 81 F-100, I6, SROD, Carter 1V non-feedback carb, no A/C, no PS, no PB, but it gets me where I need to go

 

I paid the machine shop $ 95. I was able to get the four bushings out of the spindles, but with all my delicacy I managed to marr up the grease cap threads real good. I also endured beating one of the pivot bushings out and gave up on the other. The shop ran a tap through the spindles to fix the threads, they pressed in four new bushings and honed them out, they also bead blasted / pressure washed the spindles to clean'em up. They pressed out the remaining I beam pivot bushing and pressed two new ones in for me. I thought it was pricey, especially after the cost of the pivot bushings ($26 ea) and the new springs that I wasn't counting on when I started. I was able to get one pin out myself, but the other took the help from a local mechanic with an pneumatic impact hammer....but they did it all in one day and my truck is back together with a freshly rebuilt front end

 

Heed the advice above about propane. It's great for soldering pipes. Has no effect on big chunks of steel though.

BTW, it just dawned on me why the repair manuals tell us to tap them suckers out with a drift and a hammer. The books were written the same year the trucks were made. I probably could've knocked my KP out if I'd been trying to do it in the late '60's or early '70's. Once they'd had 32 years to settle in, though, well, you've been there and done that.

George, the machinist friend I made during my conversion, asked for (and got) half a C-note without battin' an eyelash to press mine out. I picked 'em up, took 'em home and found they had done EXACTLY what I had asked for--pressed out the king pins. The bushings were still in place. Rest of the "C" I guess.

In the game of driveway mechanickin', king pins are undefeated.

Dan Blackwell