Clutch/Brake pedal disassembly trouble
#1
Clutch/Brake pedal disassembly trouble
Hey guys, I'm hoping someone has an idea to help me out. I've seen a few threads about this, but none that directly relate to what I need to do to complete my CPP under the floor power brake swap and I'm hitting a road block.
I've got a T5 in my '56 F100 and I'm trying to disassemble the clutch/brake pedal assembly under the frame to install the new longer shaft that comes with the mid fifty (pt #5950 I think) kit and I cannot get it out! Unlike most of the posts I've seen on this, I cannot pull it out the running board side because the PO welded...yes, welded some plate on the end of the shaft to connect to a rod that pushes on the clutch fork of the T5 (this is opposite of the pulling motion of the original I believe). So I'm trying to remove the pin on the clutch pedal side and slide it out towards the tranny. It should have room, based on my rough measurements and the skinniness of the T5, but I can't get the dang pin out. It has a threaded nut on the top of the shaft, and since it's right up close to the cab mount, I can't get a punch on it to beat it out or anything.
My next attempt will be to try to break it loose with a ball joint press-type of tool so I can get something to grab the bottom of the pin and coax it out. I think I saw a thread where someone said you just have to beat it out from the bottom, but my pin is definitely threaded on the top and therefore shouldn't come out through the top; it needs to come out the bottom, which leaves me around 2'' on the top...not enough to beat it out from what I can figure out.
Any ideas? Anything is appreciated!
I've got a T5 in my '56 F100 and I'm trying to disassemble the clutch/brake pedal assembly under the frame to install the new longer shaft that comes with the mid fifty (pt #5950 I think) kit and I cannot get it out! Unlike most of the posts I've seen on this, I cannot pull it out the running board side because the PO welded...yes, welded some plate on the end of the shaft to connect to a rod that pushes on the clutch fork of the T5 (this is opposite of the pulling motion of the original I believe). So I'm trying to remove the pin on the clutch pedal side and slide it out towards the tranny. It should have room, based on my rough measurements and the skinniness of the T5, but I can't get the dang pin out. It has a threaded nut on the top of the shaft, and since it's right up close to the cab mount, I can't get a punch on it to beat it out or anything.
My next attempt will be to try to break it loose with a ball joint press-type of tool so I can get something to grab the bottom of the pin and coax it out. I think I saw a thread where someone said you just have to beat it out from the bottom, but my pin is definitely threaded on the top and therefore shouldn't come out through the top; it needs to come out the bottom, which leaves me around 2'' on the top...not enough to beat it out from what I can figure out.
Any ideas? Anything is appreciated!
#2
Well I had a couple of suggestions, but I realized that you have to have the body off to do those. (Mine is off, and it gives me a lot more flexibility, but I can't drive it....)
Could you get a c-clamp or something of that nature and see if clamping down on the top of the pin will create enough pressure to push it out?
Could you get a c-clamp or something of that nature and see if clamping down on the top of the pin will create enough pressure to push it out?
#3
That might work, thanks. I think this little ball joint thing I have will do basically the same thing by isolating downward pressure on the pin by tightening the press around it. It will be tomorrow afternoon before I can try anything, so it can torture me for another half a day or so in the meantime.
#4
Well, I discovered a couple things...one, the ball joint tool worked to press the pin down where I could get a hold of it. But before I took it out, it dawned on me that I don't need to take it out in the first place. Mid Fifty sold me that clutch rod and linkage kit, but since I'm not running a stock manual trans, it wouldn't work anyway. I'll keep the shaft that's in place now and try to return the $60 kit. Thanks for the suggestion though!
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