heater hoses
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heater hoses
1968 f 100 360...... coming out of the firewall on the right side there are 2 heater hoses side by side. one goes to the water pump, the other to a junction that then goes to the block under the carb. which one goes to which...i forgot to mark them when i took apart the engine. the hose closest to the center of the truck has the heater shut-off valve in it. any help would be awesome. thanks, tgowers
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From: Middle of Ohio
Routing carb heat loop
I've got the CS with a plate under the carb. The way it is routed now, the carb always gets water flow. It seems like the path should be one big loop, with the valve also controlling hot water to the plate under the carb.
It gets really hot here in the summer (106*F) and I would like the most flexibility. Does the under-carb plate restrict the flow appreciably?
It gets really hot here in the summer (106*F) and I would like the most flexibility. Does the under-carb plate restrict the flow appreciably?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
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From: The Big, Oregon
Actually, the plate INCREASES torque and prevents a low rpm stumble, plus the heated part keeps the throttle from icing in the winter. You can run it as a single loop, since you really only need the de-icing help when you would be running the heater.
The water can flow either way, but the valve should be between the heater and thermostat housing.
The water can flow either way, but the valve should be between the heater and thermostat housing.
Last edited by Ford_Six; Mar 1, 2006 at 09:27 PM.
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From: Middle of Ohio
More spacer needs longer carburetor studs
Guys, along these lines, my brother and I are both attempting to set up our trucks ('72 and 75) with the heated PCV spacer and plastic heat isolator. This way we get a cool carburetor in the summer, and a warm one in our cold winters. He has EGR and the wrong carb on his, without the PVC connection, and mine is set up original. We both need longer carburetor studs or bolts to add the thick thermal spacer. We need two different lengths, which I can measure. I do not know how much is threaded into the intake manifold.
Question: What stud size and thread do we need, and how much threads into the hole?
Kevin
Question: What stud size and thread do we need, and how much threads into the hole?
Kevin
Last edited by 1972-34ton; Mar 12, 2006 at 07:24 PM.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
The threads into the intake are 5/16" coarse thread, and only about 1/2" threads in. You can use a coarse thread piece of all-thread, cut to the length you need.
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From: Middle of Ohio
Hoses, studs and valve
Thanks gents,
We will route our heater hoses through the heated spacers in a single loop, and use longer carburetor studs to retain the thick plastic isolators for good summer performance. The 4-packs on the web all seem to be 5/16-18, with one end 5/16-24.
Sounds like this is one item that may be the same across brands? Nowhere does anyone say that other lines use different sizes, ...that I can find anyway.
Here is a new observation: my old heater control valve is just an off/on hole, while the new one I bought has a little slot cut in the hole, so that it goes on with an exponential flow. This would explain why my lever tends to be so sensitive now, with little intermediate control. If you can see this little icon, it is the same shape as the slot
, sort of pie-shaped. This slot could be added to the old type of valve with a keyhole file.
Kevin
We will route our heater hoses through the heated spacers in a single loop, and use longer carburetor studs to retain the thick plastic isolators for good summer performance. The 4-packs on the web all seem to be 5/16-18, with one end 5/16-24.
Sounds like this is one item that may be the same across brands? Nowhere does anyone say that other lines use different sizes, ...that I can find anyway.
Here is a new observation: my old heater control valve is just an off/on hole, while the new one I bought has a little slot cut in the hole, so that it goes on with an exponential flow. This would explain why my lever tends to be so sensitive now, with little intermediate control. If you can see this little icon, it is the same shape as the slot
, sort of pie-shaped. This slot could be added to the old type of valve with a keyhole file.Kevin
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Posts: 466
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From: Middle of Ohio
Carb studs 5/16-18, and heat shield
This is to confirm that the carburetor studs are 5/16-18, and using the allthread cut to length was much cheaper. $2.20 X 4 at the auto parts store vs $2.49 for enough to make 10 at the farmers supply. Remember to buy new Nyloc nuts to match the 5/16-18 coarse threads.
I also made an aluminum heat shield to go above the plastic thermal spacer, but below the heated PCV spacer. The carb goes on top of the heated spacer on my '72. If you make a heat shield, you might want to remember that the fast idle screw swings down, and will need a hole in the plate. I think stainless would be the best material, shiny side down. Astute readers will note that the plastic thermal spacer that is currently available does not match the '72 manifold (or the heated PCV spacer). The heat shield material must be thick enough to stay flat and seal the bottom of the PCV spacer. Remember the RTV with gasket. Let it harden before running.
I also made an aluminum heat shield to go above the plastic thermal spacer, but below the heated PCV spacer. The carb goes on top of the heated spacer on my '72. If you make a heat shield, you might want to remember that the fast idle screw swings down, and will need a hole in the plate. I think stainless would be the best material, shiny side down. Astute readers will note that the plastic thermal spacer that is currently available does not match the '72 manifold (or the heated PCV spacer). The heat shield material must be thick enough to stay flat and seal the bottom of the PCV spacer. Remember the RTV with gasket. Let it harden before running.
