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I have a 2000 F150 extended cab. This weekend I had the opportunity to get on the ground and look at the bottom of my doors from the inside. The doors were open, both the big door and extended cab door. There was some serious rust forming on the bottom of the doors. I’d call it a pinch weld if that’s the correct term. Looks like the metal is folded over and pinched shut. That’s the best I can describe it. It was worse on the extended cab door, but rust was present at the bottom of the passenger door also. Rust was not so bad on the driver’s side.
Is there a process to stop the problem from getting worse? They are not rusted thru, there is no rust visible from the outside, yet. Anybody had any experience with this, and what did you do about it? I did search, but didn’t find any rust issues in the bottom of the doors. Thanks.
I have a 2000 F150 extended cab. This weekend I had the opportunity to get on the ground and look at the bottom of my doors from the inside. The doors were open, both the big door and extended cab door. There was some serious rust forming on the bottom of the doors. I’d call it a pinch weld if that’s the correct term. Looks like the metal is folded over and pinched shut. That’s the best I can describe it. It was worse on the extended cab door, but rust was present at the bottom of the passenger door also. Rust was not so bad on the driver’s side.
Is there a process to stop the problem from getting worse? They are not rusted thru, there is no rust visible from the outside, yet. Anybody had any experience with this, and what did you do about it? I did search, but didn’t find any rust issues in the bottom of the doors. Thanks.
I have a solution that works on my snow plow truck and has for years. (it is a bit smelly for a few days though) .I use old/used 85w140 gear oil in a paint spray gun and "paint" the areas in question in fall and spring amd the oil penitrates cracks and stops the rust and when use repeatable over time it forms a protective film on the area that is hard to wah off. It does stink a bit but the additives in gear oil attack rust better than regular oil and it has more staying power. I have a 79J20 Jeep that plowed snow for years aand the fram is still basicalyl 99% or new and the only place that rusted out on truck is were I could not get the oil spray too. Door bottoms are still there and they woul have been gone years ago without it.
One thing that I would do first, before spraying with oil, is to spray some Ospho on it, or imatation product. This stuff chemically attacks rust and converts it to iron oxide I believe. I have some at work. I have used it one many things. I will work as a primer as well. The rust turns black after a few hours and is supposedly stopped.
I bought the name brand Ospho at a paint store, but a also have used an imatation product bought at Advance Auto Parts. I goes on like water and one bottle goes along way.
One thing that I would do first, before spraying with oil, is to spray some Ospho on it, or imatation product. This stuff chemically attacks rust and converts it to iron oxide I believe. I have some at work. I have used it one many things. I will work as a primer as well. The rust turns black after a few hours and is supposedly stopped.
I bought the name brand Ospho at a paint store, but a also have used an imatation product bought at Advance Auto Parts. I goes on like water and one bottle goes along way.
That stuff can work but it will not get into cracks and seems were rust can start like oil can.
It should. Its consistency is like water. Anywhere water can get this should also penetrate. I have considered using it as a bath for parts with tiny crevices, but never have yet.
I will say this, don't spill any on things you don't want to stain. It contains phosphoric acid and it will leave a mark, even on concrete.
There is a TSB out on this. Ford opens up the pinch (special tool), treats the metal with something like OSPHO, primes and re-seals and re-pinch. My 2000Expy had the same problem. I used the POR15 system - 1. a cleaner degreaser. 2. a rust converter 3. the POR 15 paint. After a few days I sprayed touch up paint. After a few more days I sprayed in "rust check" oil. Have not had a problem since even here in the Salty north. The "rust Bullet" product advertized on this site is really good stuff too and they say you don't have to do the cleaning and converting steps.
Hi You may not get away from that. Were the outer skip overlaps on the inside there is bare metal underneath. The factory does not get anyprimer in these areas.
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