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Help.
Does anyone know how much Powerded Spic and Span to put in the radiator of a 1984 6.9l E350. It runs really well and I need to keep the cooling system in top shape.
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Van is 84 1 ton extended
6.9l no tutbo stock with very small exhaust
C-6 Tran
3.55 rear
I put in about a cup, but I don't know if this is enough with this size cooling system.
I also have a question about the brakes. Anyone know what would cause my left rear to be a little grabby. If you hit them hard the LR will lock up.
Tnx for the replys.
I have run s and s for years. Keeps cooling system clean. grunge out etc. no build up.
This was always in gasers though. Don't know if it is okay in a diesel. I am relatively new to diesels. I have had a Mer. 300td non turbo for about two years and I picked up this Ford van at an auction about six months ago.
As far as the spic and span, it goes back to when I was a kid and every one run it in the old Ford flat heads. They were hard to cool and this helped, or atleaqset we thought it did. I think it did help and I have done it since.
Thanks for the advise on the brakes. I will check that o0ut in the morning.
Thanks to everyone. This is really a great website.
What's up with the Spic and Span? Clean that stuff out. Flush it many , many , many times. After you get it clean put a large bottle of Bar's Leak in it. Read the instructions and put it in. It has water pump lube in it and will put a coating on the metal that will protect it. YES, YES, I know it is for leaks, but it does more than stop leaks. I am not guessing or repeating something someone told me or something I read. I have used this stuff for 35 years, it works. I put it in every block that has been vatted, after every valve job, after every water pump, (which is few ). And NO it will not stop up the cooling system. I am only speaking of the brand name Bar's Leak, not just any stop leak .
Good Luck to you
Tnx SGFT. I didn't know if it was bad for diesels or not. I have always used the spic&span in my gasers. Got it from my dad who ran it in his cars.
Guess I better not run it in the diesels. thanks again.
Without looking at the list of ingredients in Spic and Span I bet your cooling system Ph is all messed up.
These engines need DCA 4 supplimental coolant addative added to the coolant.
They also have to be maintained at proper Ph to prevent cavitation.
I ran some flatheads whenI was a kid. The V8s had dual water pumps and we always pulled the thermostats. They still run hot. Then it was said the water was moving too fast to pull the heat off and we needed to put washers where the thermosats were to slow the water down. They still ran hot. Then it was dish washing liquid that would make bubbles than would disapate heat like crazy. They still got hot and put lots of bubbles all over the ground. Then it was Spic and Span, it made just a little bubbles and didn't get all over the ground. They still ran hot, and they also ate up head gaskets. We ran 2 raditators, they still ran hot. i guess what I am telling you is Spic and Span is very corrosive, really get that stuff out. My spelling is bad but i think you can make out what I am trying to say. Remember on most every car and truck now days the heater core and the radiator are made out of alumimun. Use the Bars Leak to coat that stuff. Also the Spic and Span will eat on the freeze plugs. What I have told you would apply to all water cooled engines. Including motorcycles. By the way I quit using Prestone after 5 head gaskets on a 292 Y-Block. I used Peak and had no more problems with corroded head gaskets. But this was back in the mid 60's. The coolant doesn't know that it is in a diesel, it would do the same to a gasoline engine.
Dave Sponaugle, I have great respect for your knowledge on these Ford Diesels. I think you are smart. Have you ever used Bar's Leak? Did someone have a brother in Law that had a friend that told you a horror story about it? Also when you say Bar's Leak...not in my engine, ever, does that mean IF you found out on your own that is did do good things along the lines I said That you still refuse to use it EVER?? When one person gets all knowledge in their head about all things, that is becomes all knowing, then all men should worshp him. You ain't there yet!! What I wrote was fact not opinion and a fact I learned from hands on experence, you got to remember not everyone knows everything. I will learn from you and throw away 35 years with this product that has never failed, If you can give me facts, otherwise you are just someone spreding urban legends. The world is round, despte popular opinion of 1489. Come on tell me about Bar's Leak.
Bars Leak- The ONLY "so called" stop leak I would ever use. I am not sure about now but a few years back, Bars Leak is the only stop leak that would not void warrenty on a Cat engine. It was also used on new vehicles right out of the factory....or so I was told by one in the industry.
What I do know is that I have used Bars Leak off and on since around 1970 with no ill effects.
Dave is right, these engines need the right ph and nitrite balance to help prevent cavitation. If you have it in now check the ph and see what you have, I would bet it is way out of wack. So flush, drain, flush ,drain untill it is gone from the system. Then fill with a low silicate antifreese, distilled (or de ionized ) water and add the appropriate SCA's. Cavitation can ruin your whole day, week, and year.
I have a new radiator close to 400 dollars in my truck as well as a new heater core.
I will not use anything that may stop up the core even slightly.
There are many other products the lubricate the water pump that do not stop leaks.
If I have a leak, I replace what ever is leaking with new parts.
My last water pump went 280,000 miles without any extra lubrication at all other than new coolant every other year.
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