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Ceiling AKA Roof (sound deadening and heat insulation)
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Ceiling AKA Roof (sound deadening and heat insulation)
I won’t say that this is the most significant part for covering. Of course, it contributes to the common fund of fighting against noise, but covering of the ceiling surface will not give you a magical result.
I will briefly describe it here, because most often firstly we make the floor and the back wall - and since the cabin is already disassembled, we can take one hour and treat the ceiling surface as well. Why the noise insulation is not very effective? It is needed if it’s often raining in your town and this knock on the roof annoys you, or if you live in a place where a helicopter flies over your car every hour. But despite this, the noise insulation gives a certain effect, because a roof is a large t<span>hi</span>n m<span>eta</span>l surface that vibrates and resonates. Anyway, at least a thin layer of butyl sound deadening material should be installed to remove the noise from the c<span>a</span>r b<span>od</span>y.
In general, if we talk about zones, you need noise insulation for the floor and thermal insulation for the c<span>eili</span>ng / r<span>oo</span>f. At the bottom, we have a greater road noise, and on top the roof of the car is warmed by the summer sun. The main aim of treating the ceiling surface is a h<span>ea</span>t ins<span>ula</span>tion of the cabin. In fact, it is a large metal horizontal surface that gets very hot in the sun and allows a lot of heat into the cabin. Consequently, in winter, the surface passes precious heat outside the car (it's important for those who live in a region where the temperature drops below 32°F). This raises the issue of the mandatory sound deadening and h<span>ea</span>t in<span>sulat</span>ion.
The installation method:
Two layers. The first layer - installation of the butyl so<span>un</span>d dea<span>dene</span>r material - is used to eliminate vibration and protect against noise coming from the resonant surface. The second layer is the installation of the h<span>ea</span>t ins<span>ulati</span>on material. Each layer c<span>ove<span>rs 1<span>00<span>% of the surface.
Small tips on covering this zone:
1. If you have a big car (not just F<span>or</span>d F 1<span>5</span>0, but, for example, F<span>or</span>d Ex<span>cur</span>sion or van), check whether the surface vibrates due to the t<span>hi</span>n m<span>et</span>al. In this case, you need to strengthen the rigidity of the ceiling by installing special angle bars or creating artificial stiffeners. Such problems are extremely rare, perhaps except for really big cars and trucks.
2. Disassemble the roof. You’ll see this after you disassemble the roof.
3. I do not recommend pulling the lining outdoors. Yes, it’s a little bit inconvenient to treat the surface, but in this case you can be absolutely sure that you don’t break it (if you pull it through the door, the risk of damages is much higher). You can pull away it in the cars with large trunks - gently through the trunk. But I don’t recommend doing it in the cars that have only a cabin such as F<span>or</span>d <span>F</span>.
4. Stick the material directly to the ceiling! Do not touch the lining! The reason is that the material for noise insulation has a certain weight anyway, and you run the risk that one day the ceiling will fall on your head. If you stick the material directly to the metal roof (install it properly) - this will never happen.
5. Very carefully roll down the first layer of the material. The material hangs upside down! Please don’t be lazy and clean the surface very thoroughly to roll down the material.
6. Do not install the material to the stiffeners!!!! As in the door, stiffeners fight against vibration in the c<span>ar</span> b<span>od</span>y. They reduce the overall noise in the car, so they need no additional insulation. Moreover, they have a complex shape. You can’t install the material so that there is no a<span>ir</span> l<span>ef</span>t. If any a<span>ir</span> is left under the material, condensation and corrosion appear immediately.
7. Do not touch the stiffeners, but cover the rest of the surface to the fullest degree.
8. In this zone, I’d recommend you to treat the edges of the mastic material with a special ad<span>hesi</span>ve ta<span>p</span>e - like Dy<span>nata</span>pe. As you can see, in contrast to the floor, the distances here are very small and a beautiful interior lining is very close. To prevent the material from smearing the lining, it is better to seal the seams and edges with this alu<span>minu</span>m t<span>ap</span>e after the installation.
9. Install the second layer. The optimum thickness of soft h<span>ea</span>t in<span>sulat</span>ion material is about 1/6 inch. Be careful when selecting a greater thickness, because you may have problems with putting the lining into place.
10. In this zone, we’re not making two or three layers of heavy butyl s<span>ou</span>nd dea<span>den</span>er material, or all the more MLV (as it was on the floor)!!!! In fact, the material hangs upside down! For the ceiling, the instalation procedures described above are enough. If you overdo with the layers - even despite the super s<span>tro</span>ng g<span>lu</span>e - the materials will fall off under their own weight. The layers I described are more than enough.
11. Do not use the asphalt-based materials! Asphalt-based materials tend to melt and come off from the surface in case of strong heating. Moreover, they can make the lining dirty. The IIR-based materials are more resistant to high temperatures and they don’t melt, unlike the asphalt-based materials.
12. Be careful when installing the materials in this zone! Guys, the material should hang upside down. It gets hot on top. If you roll down and stick it improperly, it’ll just fall off.
The zone itself is very simple - clean and easy for the material installation. It does not require any major skills. The only thing is when I need to put the lining into place I usually call someone to help. It’s just more convenient. Of course, you can do it yourself, but when someone helps you, you can do it in a jiffy.
Door Pillars
Along with the ceiling, I usually recommend sticking the material to the d<span>oo</span>r p<span>ill</span>ar. Typically, the lining is installed at the bottom using self-tapping screws, and in other places - using clips. The clips break down very often, even when you use special tools.
Here are some tips:
1. You do not need to spend money on the tools. You can just gently pull the clips with a screwdriver, but don’t forget to buy 10-15 spare pieces - just in case.
2. Install the surface of the door pillars with the vibro materials only. You don’t always have a place for the second layer there. The installation of the materials is not a must, but as soon as you remove all the lining, it's better to cover these parts, because sometimes they start to squeak in a very unpleasant manner. To make it even more convenient, I’d recommend putting the anti-squeak material on the edges.
3. It's better to make compartments for the seat belt reels in the vibration insulation of the pillars. Otherwise you’ll get an acoustic short circuit.
4. If you’re not going to remove the lining fixed by self-tapping screws, you can put a piece of crude rubber. This will glue it almost to death.
The installation of the materials in the interior is a quite simple process - just stick it and that’s all.
For those who need help to sort through the types and grades of the material, I’d recommend going here:
10-13-2015, 02:44 AM
