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Hey guys, my brother called me today with a problem. He owns a '95 Ranger 4cyl, 5sp manual that has been towed to the transmission shop. Driving today he started having problems shifting in all gears. He was able to press the clutch pedal down as normal but it would grind going into any gear. Now he can't get it to go in at all and the truck is stuck in neutral.
He checked the clutch fluid res and found that it is full and normal. He said his problems happened very suddenly, shifting perfectly fine - then grinding - then stuck out of all gears within 2 miles or less.
I'm not extremely familiar with working on these trucks, but my first guess is the clutch master cylinder has failed. If anyone has a good idea as to what is wrong and how much it might cost him to repair, please let me know and I'll pass on the info to him.
Get underneath, pull the inspection plug and check the clutch-have someone step on the clutch pedal-if it actuates, it's probably the disc. The disc comes apart and jams between the flywheel and pressure plate.
Could be the synchros. They can go suddenly with little warning, this happened to me way back. The gears would grind or not engage at all if the synchros go bad.
If the master or slave cylinder goes, you would not have any pressure when you pushed the clutch, it would be fairly obvious. You would still be able to shift, if you know how without the clutch, not that hard to do.
Checking the clutch is easy if there is an access plate. But usually when a clutch goes it either just slips like heck or the throwout bearing will make a lot of noise.
If a slave or clutch cylinder fails completely, then it will immediately change the feel of the clutch pedal - no pressure. If either or both slowly fail, you can still press in the clutch but maybe not enough to get into gear.
Will it go into gear when he engine is off?
My master slowly dies over the course of 1-2 years. In the hot summers, it just don't go into gear anymore so that's when it gets changed out. I recently replaced tranny/flywheel/clutch/slave. Master had been changed about 6 mo ago. With both master and slave new, I gained about 1.5" clutch travel as measured by where clutch starts to engage distance foot off the floor. So this tells me the slave was also going out. Shifts much smoother now...but of course it's got new synchros too.
Been 6 days now since the first post probably have the answers by now.
I have a 95 f150 w/ striaght 6 in it. My clutch is going out of it and will need to be replaced soon. I have been kicking around the idea of putting the next size engine in it. What is the next size up and would it align up with the trany, piolt hole, motor mounts, ect? Also should I go with the 10 or 11 inch clutch? If these questions have been asked before sorry for the repete.
Thank-You,
Rjr
I have a 95 f150 w/ striaght 6 in it. My clutch is going out of it and will need to be replaced soon. I have been kicking around the idea of putting the next size engine in it. What is the next size up and would it align up with the trany, piolt hole, motor mounts, ect? Also should I go with the 10 or 11 inch clutch? If these questions have been asked before sorry for the repete.
Thank-You,
Rjr
You would have 2 options. The 302 or 351W. These will bolt in the truck and tranny with no structural changes. If you want to keep the fuel injection, you will need to acquire the computer and engine harness for the particular installation you choose. If you have the Mazda M5OD then stay with a 10" with the 302. If you have a ZF, use the 11" clutch. Also, I've read that the 302/ZF combo is not good and the 351W/M5OD is a weak tranny if you're going to do any hauling.
LoosMaster thanks for replying. I do haul a 5th wheel trailer with it now and was just thinking that w/ a v8 it would haul it a little easyer. So I should just keep the 6 and put the 11" clutch in it? And is there a site where I could look a drawing of the clutch so if I get into trouble I can look at it? Thanks,
rjr