Manual Trans problem
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
Manual Trans problem
Hey guys, my brother called me today with a problem. He owns a '95 Ranger 4cyl, 5sp manual that has been towed to the transmission shop. Driving today he started having problems shifting in all gears. He was able to press the clutch pedal down as normal but it would grind going into any gear. Now he can't get it to go in at all and the truck is stuck in neutral.
He checked the clutch fluid res and found that it is full and normal. He said his problems happened very suddenly, shifting perfectly fine - then grinding - then stuck out of all gears within 2 miles or less.
I'm not extremely familiar with working on these trucks, but my first guess is the clutch master cylinder has failed. If anyone has a good idea as to what is wrong and how much it might cost him to repair, please let me know and I'll pass on the info to him.
Thanks
He checked the clutch fluid res and found that it is full and normal. He said his problems happened very suddenly, shifting perfectly fine - then grinding - then stuck out of all gears within 2 miles or less.
I'm not extremely familiar with working on these trucks, but my first guess is the clutch master cylinder has failed. If anyone has a good idea as to what is wrong and how much it might cost him to repair, please let me know and I'll pass on the info to him.
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
The slave cylinder is toast. Means a tranny drop. While you are getting this done have them do the following:
Repalce Clutch disc
Repalce Pressure Plate
Turn the Flywheel
Replace the pilot bearing in the end of the crank
Replace the engine rear main seal
Replace the Master Cylinder
Personally, I would spend the extra money and us Ford parts for this stuff. I've done it both ways and I have ahd the after amrket stuff crap out within 30 days.
Repalce Clutch disc
Repalce Pressure Plate
Turn the Flywheel
Replace the pilot bearing in the end of the crank
Replace the engine rear main seal
Replace the Master Cylinder
Personally, I would spend the extra money and us Ford parts for this stuff. I've done it both ways and I have ahd the after amrket stuff crap out within 30 days.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
From: North US Border, Canada
Texan 2004 is right, I've done both also, The Ford OEM is the best, it's also the most expensive. I'd say about double $ for parts. What about the tranny? has he checked the fluid in that? I've had my tranny do that same thing once, it was leaking from the top cover at higher speeds and didn't leak at lower speeds. So between the time I got off the highway and got home the evidence of a leak was pretty much gone. So I eventually ran out of oil.
Just a thought. The other ideas are also something to consider for sure.
Good luck
Madmike33
Just a thought. The other ideas are also something to consider for sure.
Good luck
Madmike33
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
From: SW ND
When he checked the fluid did he remove the rubber piece? Should be half full or so with that in place. If fluid level is good. I would suspect the master cyl before the slave cyl. Try bleeding it. If that don't help, and the only fluid that you can see is from you bleeding it the master has failed (first hand experience). Most say when the slave goes there is fluid on the under side of the tranny, and the reservoir is empty.
