Alt. wiring and starter problems
1. The wires on my 67 that go to the alt. were cut. So putting the engine in I did my best to wire it up how it had been before when it was in the 72. But it's not charging. So I need to know what wires go where from where. It's a motorcraft alt. Got several studs and spots on the back. It's on a 360 if that matters. Pretty sure I have the positive right, and another wire that was bundled with that one i put on what as I recall was labled the ground. Also had another stud labled "stat" I think. Anyone help me out?
2. And a 69 with a 302 hc motor. It had a busted head and sat up with water in the block and wound up locking up. So we finally got the heads fixed and got it unfrozen with some diesel in the engine. Drained now and trying to start but just doesn't seem to want to crank for nothing. Points are firing, getting spark to the plubs, getting gas in the carb, primed it even. Seems to be turning a touch to slow to catch and start. Could it be it needs a little extra power to get it to turn over since it was locked up for awhile and all? Anyone had this problem?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
*jdbanks*
I assume the alternator and regulator worked when it was on the 72? If you don't know for sure, take the items to a good part house and they should be able to test them for you.
As for the 302, I suspect some or all of the rings are still bound up on the pistons. This can cause binding on the cylinder wall at the bottom of the stroke where the diameter is usually its smallest. I'd add that if the block froze literally, then there may be cracks in the cylinder walls that are binding the piston(s). You might be wiser pulling the motor apart and re-ringing it in the long run. I have never had good luck with a stuck motor lasting more than 30 days. [/FONT]
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Trace the wire back if it goes to a ground on the frame, block or battery it is ok, can never have enough grounds if they are correctly installed
However if it goes back to the "F" terminal of the regulator that is why the battery isnt charging. So install it on to the field terminal.
Sparky
*jdbanks*
*jdbanks*
You could always leave it wrapped up, then let the trusty ohm-meter doing the tracing

Connect one lead to the end of the wire and the other lead to the end of the wire you "hope" it is. If you get 0 ohms you have both ends of the same wire.
Disconnect the battery before you do this though, saves wear and tear on the meter if you happen to hit a 12volt wire

Sparky





