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my truck is running VERY rich it smells like its carbed. my first shot is going to be the plugs, do you guys have any tips for getting those little things off? its like trying to get them off of an OHC engine. what kind of plugs would you reccomend to use to get an efficient burn.
my first shot is going to be the plugs, do you guys have any tips for getting those little things off? its like trying to get them off of an OHC engine. what kind of plugs would you reccomend to use to get an efficient burn.
what do you mean?
they are like any other straight six plugs to remove.
Why does everyone like the motorcraft plugs so much. Is it best to use the OEM plugs with a modified engine or is it better to use a higher quality plug with a u-groove or something like that.
What year is your truck? I'm gonna take a shot in the dark and guess its fuel injected.
You should always use whatever it came out of the factory with, unless the engine is modified. And no modified doesn't mean a K&N air filter and colorful wire looms lol. The plugs are easy to take out, and if I remember right, all I needed was a spark plug socket and a 3" extension. Make sure the plugs are bad first. If they are rusty, green on the electrode where it meets the plug wire, really dirty looking, or haven't been replaced since you don't know when, replace them. Also, if you are going to replace the plugs, you may as well R&R the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. If you are going to troubleshoot a problem, don't just do one component of a system, do the whole system.
Why does everyone like the motorcraft plugs so much. Is it best to use the OEM plugs with a modified engine or is it better to use a higher quality plug with a u-groove or something like that.
there is nothing special about those scam plugs. like the v groove, splitfire or e power plugs all a joke.
there is nothing special about those scam plugs. like the v groove, splitfire or e power plugs all a joke.
Exactly. They are about as big of a rip off as air filters that give you 20 h.p. and 5 mpg's (K&N). Motors achieve more power by getting more air in each cylinder (matched with appropriate amount of fuel) and higher compression for example. Which is why turbo's, super chargers, running 13:1 compression, big valved heads, headers ect. add power, not NASA engineered spark plugs.
a few years back autolite and a few others got sued for the splitfire plugs. since then you really don't see them on the shelves. the new scam is something called e power plugs. look like a champion plug with a green band which demands 6.89 each yikes!
The power put to the plugs by the DuraSpark system make the "Super-Duper" plugs just another form of hood ornament. Looks pretty but does not make it go any better.
The 300 is basically a tractor motor, so plugs are not that critical except being OEM equal and in good shape. Unless you do some real mods.
Motorcraft plugs as good as you need. Have used in drag engines with 13.25:1 CR. End of each season pulled, changed and put used ones in tow vechicle. Did not need to, "Old Man" insisted.
Building up 400hp/ 400ft-lb 300 engine. It will run MotorCraft plugs, DuraSpark with MSD 6a.
When changing don't over tighten.
mine is a 96, there is so much junk in the way hoses, covers, wires etc. i went to autozone and got it scanned, its code could mean a bad o2 or a bad cat, my guess would be that it is a backpressure issue, i have 2inch true duals with walker highflow cats. would two 1 3/4 inch glasspacks help with my mileage by increasing backpressure?
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