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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Help paint spring, remove trim, volare wheels

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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 01:00 AM
  #1  
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Help paint spring, remove trim, volare wheels

Hi, I’m new and new to truck building. Just started on a’56 F100 big window. At this point, the truck is just a pile of old parts, stock frame, cab, bed with a 351Cleveland and C4. Plan to install a ’84 Volare IFS with steering and 9” rear end. Need lots of help..

1. Paint Springs: I’m reconditioning the rear springs with Teflon strips and I would like them painted. Someone wrote not to paint springs.

Why? And does it mean none of the spring or just touching surface or what? <O:p></O:p>

2. Spring Bushings:

What is the technique to replace spring bushings?<O:p></O:p>

3. Ford Rotor for Volare: I want to use stock wheels and hub caps with only one spare tire. My rear 9” axles fit the wheels but the front Chrysler rotor hub centers are too wide. I was told some ‘70’s Ford rotors will fit volares.

Which models and years and will take stock 50’s Ford wheels? <O:p></O:p>

4. Windshield Trim: I need to remove the windshield.. I cut out the inside rubber but the trim doesn’t release with light pressure and I’m afraid force will bend it.

I need to know how to remove the Stainless trim.<O:p></O:p>

5. Identify Gear Ratio: I want to replace the 2.75 rear ratio DIF with a 3.5 or better. I got another 9” rear end but it doesn’t have the identification tab, only cast markings. But the newer pinion has 11 teeth while the 2.75 has 16.

Is the number of teeth proportional to the ratio? Or is the ratio also coded into the casting numbers?<O:p></O:p>

<O:p></O:p>

Thanks for your help,

Norm

<O:p></O:p>

<O:p></O:p>
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 06:04 AM
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You will need to remove the windshield with the trim attached then you can move the rubber away from the trim. The part of the trim that sticks in the rubber looks like a upside down "T" so you can't pull it straight out.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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Norm,

As far as I'm concerned there's nothing wrong with painting springs. I painted mine with POR-15. Perhaps someone suggested that the portion between the leaves not be painted. I don't know why even that would hurt anything but it would be a waste of paint since it would be worn off right away anyway.

I know of no way to get 5 on 5.5 original Ford wheels to fit a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern Volare rotor without wheel adapters and those are usually not a good idea on a truck. It might be easier to convert the 9 inch rear to 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern by redrilling the axles or using passenger car axles and use aftermarket 5 on 4.5 wheels which accept 48-56 Ford hubcaps. I'm using the Volare wheels on mine at least initially and found some neat Cop car hubcaps for them. Eventually, I will go the aftermarket route for wheels too.

To determine the ratio of the new rear end, count the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide it by 11.

Vern
 

Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Jan 30, 2006 at 07:07 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 07:55 AM
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Since no one else has said it yet, WELCOME to the forum! Ask away, you'll get a lot of answers/advice/opinions and some of it might even be useful!
Don't forget to do a search first, most of the common questions have been covered more times and in more detail than you probably want to know.
To get you started:
1. Painting springs- Leaf springs press and slide against each other in operation, and the less friction there is resisting this movement the smoother and better the ride will be, hence the reason for putting the teflon strips between the leaves, sanding off any rust and rounding of the ends of the leaves. Painting the leaves will cause binding and sticking, defeating the whole purpose. Painting the edges or the surfaces beyond where they touch (remembering the leaves lengthen as they flatten) won't affect the operation but keep it thin to reduce cracking and flaking from the spring flex, most paints aren't flexible enough to not crack.
2. Bushings-I haven't needed to change any on my truck, they were new when I got it, but when I worked at a service garage our technique with any rubber bushing was to burn them out with a torch, being careful to only use enough heat to burn the rubber, not overheat the spring then knock out the remnants with a press or punch and hammer. Use an appropriate size socket as a mandrel and a press or large vise to press the new one back in place. I'm sure others will share their favorite technique.
3. Can't help you here, but would suggest you consider using a Jag front suspension instead. About as easy an install, but a far superior design IMHO.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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Welcome to the forum Norm. You've already met some of the regulars and more will be around to help with your questions. Ask away with anything you need help with.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 11:50 AM
  #6  
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As Ax said, once you've bolted the springs back together after doing all the stuff Ax described, there is nothing wrong with painting the non-rubbing surfaces.

No idea about any 70 Ford rotor on the Mopar spindle but as Vern said, the Mopar wheels will fit the Ford rear end fine. So using Mopar wheels gets you to a single spare.

Spring bushings - If you mean the bronze ones in the old Ford rear leaf springs, then just fit a socket that is large enough to cover most of the end of the bushing but small enough to fit inside the ID of the spring and wail on her with a BFH. Use a deep socket.

Welcome to our 2nd home.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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From: Davis, Ca
Thanks for the advice and warm welcome.
The windshield is removed, rear springs ready to paint (partially) and the ring gear has 35 teeth so the 10 teeth (not 11) Pinion makes it a 3.5 ratio which is what I hoped. The rear axel is a 5x4.5, small center lug pattern. I am still hoping to identify a Ford rotor to fit the volare front axles. More help please.

1. AODE? Are there disadvantages for this 4-speed transmission in my ’56 behind the 351 Cleveland? I would like to have the overdrive for highway travel but be able to turn the OverDrive off if I decide to pull a trailer. I would get an early model AODE before they were computerized. Any problems?

2. What steering column is compatible for an automatic with an OD switch?Wouldn’t the column need a built in drive indicator also?

Norm
 
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 10:09 PM
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I doubt a ford rotor would fit, but someone may come up with a PN. You hear alot of BS sometimes when talking to people that want to sound like they know their way around cars.

What about other options like turning down the volare hub?

Are the ford wheels hub centric or lug centric maybe you could open up the opening in the ford wheels.
 
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