Hi campers - About a week ago my 1993 F350 developed a weaping/leak around the #2Cyl injector. (It's only 200K miles on the engine!)
The top inlet looks fine, but it's weaping around the base of the "Fuel return Tee" on the injector. I'm pretty good around gas engines but these injectors are a whole new ball game for me. I just purchised a rebuild kit that has 8 "Fuel Return Tee" and hoses and O-rings. I'm looking for anybody who might have done this rebuild. I'm asking for advice.
plan about 1-2 hours. do one side at a time. gently remove the steel fuel lines from the tops of the injectors. push them very gently to the side just enough to get the caps off. at the rear of each side is a line going to a "t" connector. these lines get replaced also. the line going to the "t" from the pass side is a little tricky because it is routed under the cdr valve. also the front injector on the pass side may have an "extra" fitting on top that will have to be removed. if you take your time and be gently with the lines you will be ok.
remove each side at a time intact. lay out your caps, clamps, and cut hose pieces and build a set to match. it is better to have the hose pieces a little long than short. the caps can rotate, but you don't want them pulled if the hose pieces are short. remove the 2 o-rings from the top of the injectors. make sure all you parts are clean without girt or dirt. use a white grease to assemble. put some on the new o-rings and top of the injector. and put some on the inside of the new caps. once you get the o-rings in place, install the assembly. you should feel the caps "snap" into place while pressing down and rotateing. install the new lines to the "t" and return line from the ip.
when you reinstall the steel fuel lines, leave them a little loose. when everthing is back in place, have a helper crank the engine. you should see a small amount of fuel weep down from each fuel line nut, this should get the air out of the lines, be carefull not to overheat the starter. when you see fuel at a line,you can tighten that line.
there is also a piece a rubber fuel line (3/8") at the "in" side of the fuel pump on the lower front pass side of the engine. now is also a go time to replace that line and any other rubber line in the system, feed or return. you will have to bleed the air from the bleed valve on the fuel filter. again have a helper crank while you press the valve open untli you see fuel.
2jhanna - Thanks for the help. The information is very helpful. I'm waiting until it gets a little warmer outside to start this. But thanks to your information, I'm not as leary about doing this. I'll have to take a few photos and update my progress on this job.
Get a return line kit, has all the hose and parts neded to do this for about $30.
Also if you can get a hold of a small tube of Molykote 55 O-ring Lubricant made by Dow Corning – I think it’s about $13.00 on line. Use it on the O-rings before slipping them on the injector’s, also wipe a little inside the plastic cap before pushing that on. Good stuff - Slightly swells o-ring, compatible with plastics, operating temperature between – 65c (-85f) and + 165c (+329f). Should keep the o-rings from drying out and or sticking to the injector / plastic areas for a while. That way when you’re working on the engine a year or two from now and bump the lines around may be they wont start leaking again…
It's been a fun day. Replaced all the tee fittings, O-rings and lines. Left the injector lines hand tight on the first crank. Tightened all the injector lines and it started on the second crank. It helps having two new batterys. However, I will have to go back and look at #3 injector. It's started weeping too much. But the rest look pretty good so far. I had to quit because the sun went down. So I did a hose down and let it dry over night and start again in the morning. I'll also look for some of that Molykote 55 O-ring Lubricant to see if that will help.