were you able to get it working? the install should take no longer than 25 mins tops.

 

It worked this morning as posted but seemed to run a bit rough...then after sitting wouldn't start.. maybe gas..?? it's on empty..the XRi semed very close to the lobes when I looked into it but did not touch..although it did shift if pushed... the points plate was tight as heck on the housing..compared to the Crane plates???

 

humm? my base plate is tight and the slider plate is snug. i lubed it with moly based grease . make sure you used the white conductive grease they give you.

 

That is a funky trigger system getting a signal from a lobe that only has 45 degree peaks plus the small diameter of the cam, proximity switching. Why do you think they used long fingers to trigger electronic distributors when manufactures upgraded from points in the 70's? With a shutter trigger your dealing with a large disk with windows, alot more accurate due to diameter on all cylinders thru a window. This is accurate as shaft wear, cam looseness on shaft and wobble have very little effect on a shutter system as all it sees is a open window during rotation. As with a Unilite system your coil current is limited by a ballast or internal resistor coil hence reduced secondary current energy. Electronics that make heat need heat sink paste plus a environment inside a dizzy made of aluminum that conducts engine heat just doesn't make sense as electronic component reliability drops with heat.
My way of thinking, why waste money on a half a$$ system, look at your troubles when you could step up a higher energy system, yes more money.
Charles, I see you added the cost of a coil replacement to your ignition conversion. Not to be a butt head it's that I was up that low dollar ignition upgrade road back in the 60's and 70's.
.....=o&o>.....

 

I followed the info as close as possible and it ran fine this morning,...might be a fuel issue... need to investigate..

Ihope i read the instructions correctly on the ballast resister, I found the + coil lead to be 12.22 and when grounding the - lead it was 5.8 I hope i got this right ??

 

grounding the lead is a big no no! you will melt the resistor. i have been running mine at 12 volts.

 

Thanks every one and thanks Beemer. I,m just going back to the Pertronixs and a good coil. The old 352 and this 390 ran so good on it. I just put the Crane unit on for the rev limiter feature. I

 

I just installed an XRi a weak ago and going to start a thread with my opinon.
My first grief was the ground strap, I feel it's too short, and too stiff. I'm shure it will break sooner than later. I cleaned up and reused the original wire.
I like to tighten things down so the bushings are something to get used to.
I sliced the back side of the grommet off leaving a thin flange, cutting a corner out would be easier but I'd keep it in place (from turning) with a dab of silicone.
I didn't like the sideways play in the plate, about .020-.025 and at that point made the toll free call. The gentleman that answered claimed not to have heard of these probs before but assured me the play was OK.
It's been running fine.

By the way the voltage check is done by grounding the negative side of the coil and measuring the positive side, for a quick check thats fine.

The XRi needs a power wire with full power, bypassing the resistor wire in the harness. The coil still needs power from the resistor wire unless you want to use an internal resistor coil.

 

thats how i did it might have gronded the neg for 5-8 sec for the digital meter to find home..blew off the truck today..

 

That test aside, the aftermarket ignition needs 12 volts but the original coil still needs the reduced voltage.
I ran a wire from the ignition switch that was hot in the start/run positions to power up the XRi. If you upgrade the coil think about one with an internal resistor then use the same wire.

 

Yesss!!!! she was out gas...1/2 gallon and vrrrmmmmm.. I want to take the camper off for repairs and take the truck down the road today to see if she feels any better..I'm sure she will

 

Well we sat the camper down and I took her for a run when she warmed up... WOW!!!!! What difference a working vac advance makes...The XRi seems to be a little iffy on starting up compared to the points which just kicked and boom running..could this be the 12v thing.. need I run it to the ignition switch as suggested or is this something else all together? Any who when she's warmed up she runs like a new truck --no sputter/hesitation/damp-power just drives like I thought she should from the beginning...


Thanks Folks!!! I know it wouldn't be where it is without the help..

 

Get a switched 12v power source to the AR-I and ballast to coil or a coil with internal resistor then repeat your above test.
.....=o&o>.....