C Notch Question
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: new jersey
C Notch Question
Hey guys,
I plan on making my own c notch pieces since my frame is already boxed in(no picks in gallery yet but are coming soon) i only need to make the notch part. My question is, how much do i need to take out. I thought maybe 6" long and 1 1/2" deep maybe about right but not sure, could someone chime in with the correct measurements and possible a pic?
thanks fever
I plan on making my own c notch pieces since my frame is already boxed in(no picks in gallery yet but are coming soon) i only need to make the notch part. My question is, how much do i need to take out. I thought maybe 6" long and 1 1/2" deep maybe about right but not sure, could someone chime in with the correct measurements and possible a pic?
thanks fever
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Madison, SD
Might be best to lower your rear suspension to it's lowest possible point of travel to determine how big a notch you need, if the rear housing hits the frame, cut it little and try it again. The less notch you have to cut the better....
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Yes, the width of the C depends on the diameter of the axle housing + some clearance for suspension movement, the depth is arbitrary depending on how low you want the chassis to be able to drop before hitting the axle plus the thickness of whatever bump stop you use. Someone who wants to "lay frame" would need a much deeper notch than someone with lowered springs who is occasionally hitting the bumpstops and wants a little more clearance. You can usually notch ~ 1/2 the hight of a boxed frame safely without needing to add metal above the notch. For shallow notches a portion of an 1/8" wall tube of the right diameter works well to line the notch.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
What is the minimum clearance needed to avoid a "C" notch. Would three inches be enough? I have about six right now but I don't have a bed on it yet. I'm thinking it will come down about 2-3 inches when I put the bed on.
Vern
Vern
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Rochester, NY, USA
I think your "optimum" clearance would depend on how stiff your springs are. If your real stiff I would think that 3" would be fine. If your soft, I would think you would want more like 5". I've got 3" of travel before I hit a 1" bump stop. So in reality, I lost 1" of my 2" C-notch by adding a stop.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Really depends on spring stiffness, expected loading, driving surfaces, For highway use with springs with every other leaf removed, and no to light loads, 3-4" is safe. be sure to use a bump stop to avoid metal to metal contact, especially if clearance is minimal. NEVER use your shocks as bumpstops/suspension travel limiters! there should still be tavel remaining with the axle sitting on the stops to prevent permanent damage.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
My plan had been to remove every other leaf, reverse the eyes and flip the front hanger to clear the reversed eye, however the Jag IFS is pretty low.That should get me about 21/2 to 3 inches of drop. I would like a little more and do not want to buy mono's (my original springs are good). I also like the idea for maintaining some decent hitch weight capability. The other alternative is to flip the axle (9 inch rear) which should be more like 4 inches. I may need to C notch the frame a little to accommodate the axle flip. Has anybody out there done the flip alone? I thinkthat the maximum available top of axle to frame is 7+ inches in stock form.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
My rear springs are relatively soft...very soft compared to the stock springs. Originally, my F-3 had 13 leaf springs on the rear but I replaced them with 5-6 leaf rear springs from an 87 Chrysler 5th Avenue. The overall weight of the donor car is about the same as the truck but much more of that donor weight was on the rear end than on a pickup. Even so, I'm hoping the springs will not give up any more than when the same weight is added to F-1 springs with 4-5 leaves. The axle has been moved to the top of the springs but the Chrysler springs have more arch in them than the original springs...
Vern
Vern
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From: new jersey
Thanks guys, sorry it took me a couple days to respond back, work has been very demanding lately its good though the money comes in handy. Ok! so i'll do a 2" notch and a 7" cut out for axle clearance and i should be ok right? 2ndly do i need a bump stop? my rear suspension will be a four link from tci.
Thanks Ernie
P.S
Brad any more pics to add to your gallery? looks great so far, would like to see more.
Thanks Ernie
P.S
Brad any more pics to add to your gallery? looks great so far, would like to see more.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Should use a bump stop unless some other part of the suspension system prevents the axle from contacting the frame. Remove the springs and jack the axle through it's full range of motion, not just straight up and down, but also skewed (one end up and other down) If the axle hits the frame put in a stop. Note that with col springs coil bind, spring collapsed until coils are touching may be the limiting factor, but IMO I'd want the axle to hit a rubber bumper before coil bind (or hit some other solid stop) occured, it's a lot easier on equipment. Use OEM front bumpstops, theyre cheap and only need a drilled hole and nut to install. I like the fronts better than the rear since they are cone shaped and therefore softer at light contact than the puck shaped rear ones.
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