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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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Looking for another engine

Well, I decided to keep and fix up my truck. Gonna start with an engine from the junkyard. I know, why not get a fresh new one; well I just dont have the money and Im only going to be driving the truck in the summer(no winters!!!). My question is, would any 302 engine bolt up to what I have now?? Given that the engine is close to a 92(90,91,93,94ect) what should I be aware of and/or look for when finding and replacing the engine?? Im still looking, right now the cheapest I found is $450. I also plan on shift kittin the tranny(E4OD), maybe a new torque converter, maybe duals, new body pannels/ paint and new tires+rims. Gonna take a few months but soon my baby will be back. Put in anyhting that might be usefull!!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 01:02 AM
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Any 302/5.0 or 351W will bolt up, but it's best to get something close so you don't have to change too much stuff over. You don't want a low-compression early smog motor like a late'70s-early '80s, and you don't want to go any earlier than '81 due to the different imbalance and the problems you'd have from that with trying to use your current flexplate.

This would be a good opportunity to go up to a 351W if you're so inclined, but you'd have to get one complete from the intake to the oil pan including the flexplate (same imbalance as the pre-'81 302/5.0)

There's a lot of information in this forum on doing that swap, a few members here are experts on it so it's easy enough to dig that out with a search of this forum.

If you stay with the 5.0, then you can reuse all your externals and possibly save a few bucks by buying a bare motor. Depends on how willing to work with you the wrecking yards in your area are.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 02:55 AM
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The salvage yards I deal with have one price ($299) for motors over a certain age and most 302's fit into that category. They will let you have it complete. Get a complete engine that is the same as yours and you will have extra stuff like exhaust manifolds, carburetor, engine wiring harness, distributor, EGR valve, FPR valve, lots of sensors, Etc. This could save you money on extra parts down the road. The stock thermostats I have seen were all 192 degrees and up since the late '70's and at that temperature, barring very high mileage, they should have very little wear and you might even get by without boring or new pistons, just hone and re-ring them and new bearings and gaskets
Jerry
 
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 12:22 PM
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i second going to a 5.8 swap. you can go from 88-92 for this and bolt right in. the time and effort for install is the same. especially if its a complete motor. finding an ecu would be easy as well check out www.fordfuelinjection.com
just so you know doing any work on the e4od is expensive and so i would find a good shop to perform such work otherwise it will bit you in the long run.

being a 4wd the 5.8 is the only way to go.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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I don't know the shape of your current engine. But mine, the block cracked and a piston went up the cylinder side ways. I just went to the U-Auto-Pull-It and got me a short block out of an 83 grand marquis for $63!! with the flexplate and balancer still on it (Cause it was a different balance than my pre 81). Anyway my friend that races took the shortblock to his engine builder and i had it all mic'ed and checked out. I put new rings, bearings, and a full felpro set of gaskets in it, put my 77 heads and intake on it with all my 77 external stuff and it works great. So with all that said you might could save some money by just buying a short block from the junkyard and put all your stuff on it. Just my suggestion.

Jason
77 f100
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:37 AM
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A 315 would be nice, but wouldnt I have to fab up another exhaust system? I heard that the 302 and 351 have diff size exhaust. All I want to do to my tranny is put a shift kit in it, is it that intensive/complex on the E4OD?? I dont plan on doing any hard core offroading, just mostly a DD with some occasional offroading.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:44 AM
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The 302 and 351W have the same size exhaust, the 351W block is just a little taller and moves the manifolds upwards a bit. It's usually not a problem though.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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any exhaust shop can fix the Y pipe for around $60 at most.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:18 PM
  #9  
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Well, the cheapest 351 I found so far is $700, $450 for the 302. That little 302 had enough power for me; dont get me wrong, I loooove power but for my purposes I just dont need it. If I have it, I want to use it, not just for showin off or racing. Another thing, whould it be beter to take the engine and tranny out together(buddys dad has anything needed to do this) and whats the easiest way to take it all out?? thanks guys
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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I paid $800 for my 5.8. having this larger motor is better. your mpg will be the same if not better because the larger motor doenst work as hard to move your heavy rig. I gained mpg after swaping to a 5.8. the work involved is the same as well. if you ever decide to tow the 302 just aint going to cut it. you would be better off with a 300-6 then a 302.

I would rather have the extra power just incase , then wishing i had the power when i needed it most.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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Marc150,
I agree that the 351 would be better for the 4wd and for towing and most of the parts are interchangeable except for the intake. If you get one for the same year range, the extra stuff would work with your truck. I have owned both off and on since 1977 and never noticed much difference in mpg.

jsutton, Is your U-Auto-Pullit owned by Pipes? That is the main one here in Shreveport.

Jerry
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:18 PM
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I'm sure it is because they look just a like and on my membership card it has all the Bossier and Shreveport locations listed. I love U-Auto- Pull-It. The first engine I pulled was out of a 83 F250 and I didn't do a compression check or anything I just yanked it and left, then I noticed the block was cracked. I took it back and they said go get another one!! Thats when I got the grand marquis motor! They are the lowest price on anything around here. Even the long block is only $98. Whole engine is like $150 I think, if its more than that its not much more. I'm going within the next month or so to get my rust free bed. I know this is gonna make some people up north sick, but a whole bed (less lights and tailgate) is only $127!! Its cool to talk to someone around here.

Jason
77 f100
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 06:03 AM
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Found an engine in the swap sheet, '88 5.0, totally rebuilt/w 40,000mi. Complete with harness and cpu. All for $400, I think Im gonna go for it. Only ane question, is the ignition system the same, I have TFI, does this motor have it and if not could I put it on?? Thanks alot guys, Im kinda clueless when it comes to pullin motors. Thanks!!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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Stock, it would have the distributor-mounted TFI so no worries.

Also, are you going to pull it or is it already out? If you're pulling it, don't cut any wires. Saves a lot of problems later. And get one of those Ford Spring-Lock connector tools, about 5 bucks from any auto parts store. Well worth it when it comes to disconnecting fuel and A/C lines without damaging them.
 

Last edited by TigerDan; Feb 9, 2006 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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It is already pulled, I called the guy and said it was totally rebuilt, ground up. All stock parts. Boy, I cant wait to get it. Its perty nasty outside so I wont be puttin it in soon, maybe a set of headers is in order?! Anyone know if there any power differences in this one(88) to mine(92)?? When pullin the engine, would it be easier to take appart the whole front clip(bumper, header pannel ect) and pull it straight out or lift it out?? Thanks again yall, now I just hope the $$$ holds out!!
 
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