question about ignition problems????
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question about ignition problems????
i recently came across a '66 with the (before today for me) unheard of 352 motor. the body is decent and the motor looks tight. it just won't start. i replaced the cylinoid (sorry if spelled wrong) and checked the wires, which look good. i was going to replace the ignition itself but found myself arguing with it for over an hour trying to remove it from the dash to get a better look at it and check the connections. what is the easiest way to do this and what else should i look for to help trouble-shoot this problem. the truck ran fine according to the previous owner before he parked it two years ago. unfortunately he never started it from time to time to keep things loosened and cleaned. also, i have never owned a ford in my life so i'm unsure of where to even start on the upkeep and restore process. i would love to show this truck as well as drive it. plus, where i can i get some more info on the motor itself? thanks so much for all the advice and help i'm sure i'll receive from this sight.
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ingnition question
yes the starter turns. the motor is not locked up. when i boost from another car, the motor will drag like not enough voltage is pushing the starter. she did give one real good turn and then all died. no dashlights, not headlights, no attempt to turn. so i replaced the cylinoid. no nothing happens at all.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas
That could be a bad starter, but those are cheap $29. at autozone 6 months ago. More likely its turning slow because of a bad ground or a bad battery cable. they tend to coroad (my bad spelling) up if they are left sitting too long with no current running through them.
Welcome to FTE! That 352 is part of the FE family of engines. One of the best series of engines ever made by any auto manufacturer. once you get the electric issue worked out, it should run forever.
Welcome to FTE! That 352 is part of the FE family of engines. One of the best series of engines ever made by any auto manufacturer. once you get the electric issue worked out, it should run forever.
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thanks. i'll try all that later today. need to let it warm up outside abit first. it's like about 55 degrees today for the high. the battery cables are fine. there is no corrosion on them. i will double check all that. it may just be a bad coil too now that i think on it. you've all been so helpful. hopefully i'll have some good news posted tonight. thanks for all your help and advice.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
If you want to remove ignition switch need to have key and turn all the way to left 'accessory' indent. There is a small hole and by inserting a paper clip, or something simular, continue to turn key to left and mechanism will come out. To remove switch, hold the face, chrome bezel, and turn the switch from backside to prevent scratching dash. If recall, should be retaining cup and spring on backside. Reverse process to install.
As other members suggested, check cables and connections. If have not already done so, would go thru basic tune-up. Check condition of plugs and set gap. timing, spark, and condition of dist. cap. Purchased a cheap inline spark plug tester where can test spark at timing mark, seems to work for me. Later on may want to consider electronic ign., number of options but would not deal with it at this time. Get it running and enjoy and consider upgrades at later date.
dave
As other members suggested, check cables and connections. If have not already done so, would go thru basic tune-up. Check condition of plugs and set gap. timing, spark, and condition of dist. cap. Purchased a cheap inline spark plug tester where can test spark at timing mark, seems to work for me. Later on may want to consider electronic ign., number of options but would not deal with it at this time. Get it running and enjoy and consider upgrades at later date.
dave
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ignition reply
awesome info. i layed under that dash for an hour today racking my brains on how to remove it. finally had to just come home to control my temper. do you know the wire color scheme for the switch. i've got yellow, black, black w/white, red, red w/blue or purple, and one grey that says something about "resistor do not cut or" then the rest is faded. was wanting to just put a whole new switch in but then got lost with the color scheme. was afraid to guess. i did replace the coil so i'm sure the ignition switch or wire has to do with the failed starting problem and no power whatsoever anywhere in the truck. i looked at the starter and only see the groundwire from the battery (other side of the cylinoid) connecting to it.
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I would get a wiring diagram for that truck, I think blue oval has them for under $10. Have a cold adult beverage and relax about this. I skinned my knuckles raw trying to figure out the bezel/ignition switch the first time. It is really hard to get that thing out of there at first, but will get easier. In the meantime be glad you only have a few things to check and you will be rolling soon.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Ridgeway, Virginia
I hope all the attempts at starting this thing were not done by trying to jump start through some old half charged or flat dead battery. If so there may be nothing at all wrong with the truck other than the need for a good healthy battery (with brushed connections). If the engine has been sitting for a while it would be a good idea to remove all the spark plugs and shoot a little WD-40 or Marvel Mystery Oil down all the cylinders. With the plugs out there will be very little drag on the starting system due to no compression. This will allow you the opportunity to check for spark, some oil pressure, and some fresh fuel up to the carb. Turn the engine over enough to get make this happen but never crank longer than 5 seconds without giving the starter a rest. After this replace your plugs and it will probably run like a new one.
This idea is based on the statement that the truck was running fine when parked.
This idea is based on the statement that the truck was running fine when parked.
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