I didn't have any codes for the EGR either, but sure enough changing it out fixed the pinging 100%.

Just something to check. If you can make the valve move with a vacuum pump smoothly then that's obviously not your problem... But an EGR system that doesn't work will definitely make it ping horribly.

 

Well I checked the white vacuum line under the hood next to the hood hinge on the passenger side and found it leaking. I repaired that and it fixed the problem with my vacuum leak. It is still pinging so I will attack the EGR valve next.

Gang thanks for all your input! What a great forum.

-Jammyster

 

did you reset computer?

just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes.

than drive the truck so the computer relearns.

after that recheck timing.

does your heater control work now?

 

I not getting any computer codes at all. I never had a problem with the heater control valve, when I would put my A/C on max it wouldn't work and when under acceleration it would change from coming out of the A/C vents and change to blowing out the defroster vents. I ran a can of fuel injection cleaner in it last tank and it helped alot on the pinging. I will have a look at the EGR valve, it's got 90,000 on it since it was last changed.

 

the computer does not always set codes.

What i am saying is that the computer learned that the hose was leaking and made adjustments to compensate.

you need it to relearn that you fixed vacuum leak.

did you try seafoam?

 

Yeah, you can test the valve and position sensor with a hand vacuum pump and a multimeter. The vacuum actuators are pretty solid from what I've seen but I recall there is a test for them too, it should be a pulsing light vacuum at idle out of them. Of course all the vacuum lines can crack too. You can test everything to see if it's bad before you waste money replacing something that doesn't need it...

 

I will reset the computer, I hadn't thought of that. And I'm a firm believer in seafoam. I'm running a second tank full now.

 

The injectors are probably fine, the seafoam need to go into the air intake of a warm engine, sit for a half hour then run the engine to blow out the dissolved carbon.

Warm up engine, Put 3 or 4 ounces of seafoam into a cup, grab some rubber hose that will fit over one port of your vacuum tree.
As the engine is running, pull a rubber cap off one of the unused vacuum tree ports, or pull one hose off, you will hear the engine start revving fast, so temporarily stick your finger over the open vac port, then slide your piece of temporary rubber hose over the port, and pinch the open end closed with your thumb and finger, next drop the end of your hose into the seafoam cup, and let your engine vacuum suck the seafoam from the cup into the intake manifold. You will need to regulate how fast the seafoam is drawn thru the rubber hose by squeezing the hose, without completely stopping it.
If you suck the seafoam up too fast, the engine will stall.
Feed the seafoam as fast as you can thru the hose without stalling the engine.
When all the seafoam is in the intake, shut the engine off as fast as you can.
Let it sit for 10, 20, 30, even 60 minutes. Turn the engine back on, and get ready for a big cloud of bad smoke, the smoke will probably be a bluish-gray color, even white. The cloud of smoke is bad sometimes, so make sure no one is standing around the truck, especially little kids.
I usually let the truck run ( idle) for a few minutes then take it on the road for a fast run. Pedal to the metal!

Optional, shoot some aerosol seafoam into the throttle also.