Hi, 89 aero, 3.0L

I seem to have a slight miss at idle, and lower rpm... I do still have power, but it just doesn't idle like glass (random shake)

There is no hesitation in acceleration... so I think it's either a small vacuum leak or the timing may be off a few degrees.

Is there a way I can easily check the timing? I know I need a light, but where are the marks on this engine? (if you could be very specific, that would be great)

Also, can I move the distributor shaft while the engine is running? or should I do the advance/retard a little at a time, with the engine off only (and restart it everytime)

Also, is there more to this than ignition timing? Is there an easy way to check the base timing (if applicable)?

thanks,
Bob

 

How old are the plugs/wires?

Has this been doing it for a while or is it new? V6s aren't the smoothest things in the world.

I have never really heard the timming go off on the 3.0L but it is possible. I would lean more to a vacuum leak, or bad plugs/wires/rotor.

You can put it to base timming if you pull the spout plug up by the brake booster. See if it idles smoother.

Another thing to do is to spray the area with brake cleaner (be carefull) and see if it runs better. If it does, vacuum leak.

 

i've had some bad experiences using brake cleaner around and plastics or rubber....fuel injector or carb cleaner is safer and generally won't eat up or cause more damage than it solves
one of the safest chems to use is ethyl alcohol if you can find it in spray or isopropl alcohol

don't want to mention the time I used brake cleaner to clean the crud on an old throttle body....melted everything but the harder metals...melted plastic goo everywhere...the throat looked like the melted end of a toothbrush gone bad....cleaned it up and still ran....sold it immediately...wonder if it is still on the road somewhere...goo and all

 

Hi,

Just changed plugs/wires/rotor/cap about 4 months ago... the reason I did that, was because it was running rough (at idle you could feel vibration in the steering wheel) - Plus it just sounded bad... but the complete tune up fixed that...

I used Motorcraft plugs, but they are just the single plats... I used all top end stuff when I did the tune up, cause I hate doing it, but I'm also getting good at it :-)

Actually, way back, when the van was only a few years old, it would backfire through the carb on heavy acceleration, and it was the timing that was off...

I was just wanting to check it, so I didn't have to pay to have it checked, etc...

I notice the miss at like 1500RPM as well (under hood, goosing the throtle)

Do your 6's shake randomly at idle... when in the car, I don't notice it at all... but if it's timing/vacuum... I don't need ANYTHING robbing me of 1 HP even, in my little 3.0L !!

BTW, where is this spout plug? I know where the Master Cylinder is (of course) and the tank, etc) don't know where the booster is...

96 - thanks for that tip... I don't need more problems than I have :-)

if it's a vacuum leak, how best to troubleshoot that? the tubes are all OEM, and rubber doesn't last forever...

Seems like it's more noticeable lately... but, hasn't gotten any worse in the last couple of months... of course, I don't drive it that much...

Bob

 

single platinums are fine in a distributor Aero...will last 50k-100k miles
spout plug is black plastic plug about 1 1/4" long by 3/4" wide with double wire coming out of jack at other end, against firewall between engine and brake booster which is connected between firewall and master cylinder and drives the master cylinder...pull the spout plug....allows you to set base timing to -10d...loosen bolt on base of distributor until dist. can be moved somewhat at set to -10d....tighten bolt back to 15 lbs ft....distributors very seldom slip...if timing off-look for wear in dist. shaft, gears or timing chain gears...
Aero V6's are not the smoothest running engines....no balance shaft

pull codes..KOEO and KOER and list on forum...betha you have a sensor failing....directions pg 6-3 Chiltons or search Aero forum....
when was throttle body throat last cleaned and IAC last cleaned?

check for vacuum leak by listening around hoses and spraying with fuel injector, throttle body or carb. cleaner...engine speeds up with spray in one location==vacuum leak....likely culprit is vacuum tree on back of intake manifold...take off dog house cover..also check vac. lines to heater, vac line to fuel regulator and vacuum line to tranny modulator

another location is vibration loosened bolts on plenum and intake manifold...common on Ford V6s

 

Guess I will start with the easy stuff... I never have cleaned the IAC motor (is that a motor, or just a sensor?, should I remove it and clean it that way? haven't cleaned the TB in quite a while... should I use Seafoam there? I've heard good and bad things :-)

Hey 96, since you have had an 89, any other routine maintiance stuff I should be doing to get another 100K out of her? I was thinking of doing a drop pan, and clean oil pick up screen, as I get some lifter noise when first starting out... also, should I do the tranny fluid? it has 125K on it, no problems with tranny... was changed at 60K - Still looks ok (the fluid) does this tranny have that modulator problem, or was that only on the 4.0L and later Aeros?

I'm sort of like "if it aint broke don't fix it" but, on the other hand, I try to do logical stuff to keep it running for the 17 years I've had it :-)

I noticed more rust today... starting to eat my driver side door... Darn!

 

Not really a motor, more of a valve, you remove and squirt it good with TB cleaner.

Sense you did not direct that question to anyone else, should I answer it? I guess I will, if you are really enthusiastic about dropping the pan, go for it. You might want to pick up some main bearings and replace while in there. Also a Oil Pan gasket set would be a good idea too.

Yes, I would change the Tranny fluid, filter, ect. Even though the fluid looks good (that means the tranny is running fine) the Anti-foaming agents, anti-varnish agents, ect wear down over time. It is a good idea to change the tranny fluid/filter every 30k mi (more often if you tow or do lots of mountain driving.)

Actually the 3.0L is more prone to Modulator failure due to not having a little heat shield for it like the 4.0 does. It is a $20 part and while Down there I would check to see if there is fluid in the vacuum line. It might not be that bad right now for you to notice, but better safe than sorry.
Sand to bare metal and put a coat of Rustolium anti-rust on there before it is too late.

 

hi 93..

I figured you were busy getting your resume in order to be messing with my silly things... :-)

So, I am assuming that the IAC is near where the intake duct connects to the TB? Should I pull it out and hit it with some TB cleaner? guess that is the only way to get at it? would Seafoam help the TB and plate/flap, etc?

What is the function of the modulator on for the Tranny? and where is it? why does fill up with fluid?

Also on the oil pan, do I have to remove the cross member first to be able to pull the pan? yeah, if the main bearings are not that expensive, I may want to do them at that time... but at 125K? or should I wait?

Lastly, and if you are still reading this... I never did get an answer all the times I asked on here (begged) - When in OD, I can't get my tranny to shift into 2nd gear, even with the petal on the floor, going up a hill... will only go into 3rd, and stays in 3rd, and chugs... not that I'm trying to do 90 up a hill... but is there a way I can adjust the kick down cable, or will that also affect the shifter linkage? - how can I get a more responsive petal? It used to do this, before I had someone drop it to fix a rear seal... when they put it back together, it's always been like this...

Where do you live NH, can I just bring this thing to you? :-) I have beer and Cash!

 

Never to busy for my buds here.

It is on the intake manifold just right after the throttle body. It looks like a metal cylinder with an electrical connection.

Throttle Valve or Modulator
To shift properly, the automatic transmission has to know how hard the engine is working. There are two different ways that this is done. Some cars have a simple cable linkage connected to a throttle valve in the transmission. The further the gas pedal is pressed, the more pressure is put on the throttle valve. Other cars use a vacuum modulator to apply pressure to the throttle valve. The modulator senses the manifold pressure, which drops when the engine is under a greater load. (we have the vacuum modulator) http://www.ingegneriameccanica.org/v...ansmission.htm

It is located on the passenger side of the tranny, right next to the Cat. There is a vacuum hose connected to it.

Might as well do it now, a set runs around a $100. I know it is recomnded on the 3.0 SHO to do it at around that millage, but of coarse that is a Hi Po engine.

Replacing the modulator might solve this problem. Also fluid level is important.

Check the upper right corner, South Dakota. So if your Aero can make it here, I have the room to work on it.

 

South Dakota... well, I did always want to see the Mt Rushmore :-)

How much are the modulators for that Tranny? Can I do that myself?

so what you are saying, is the modulator is what governs the shift points per se, which is input by how hard the engine is working? What does the kick down cable do? is that tied to the Modulator in some way then?

Also, this might sound like a dumb question, but what is the best way to check the tranny fluid in these aeros? Hot at idle? or should I engage OD, use the parking brake (that's safe!) or?

Can I change the modulator without having to drain the tranny?

Sorry again for so many questions...

 

Well after we get your Aero running right, I will give you a tour of the area.

Around $20 at most parts stores. Yes you can do it yourself, it is located above the cat on the side of the tranny, you have to remove a bolt, and pull it off, be carefull not to loose the little pin inside (sometimes it sticks in the tranny, sometimes it falls on the floor and bounces away) Put new one in, bolt on, plug vacuum hose on, you are done, almost as easy as an oil change.

It controls the shifting, not quite the shift points. You have the idea. As far as I know there is no kickdown cable.

Do not do it with the vehicle in any other position besides Park. Best way is with it at operating temperature and you have run through all the gears (Moved the selector through R N OD D 2 1 then back to park) and check the level. Too much or too little causes the A4LD to act funky.

Yes, no need to drain the fluid at that time, It is above the fluid level.

No problemo.

 

Modulator is on the side of the tranny. Easy to replace, New one is $20-$30. 10 MM bolt, just watch out for the small pin that MAY come out with the modulator. Also, tranny fluid will come out when you remove, so be ready with the new one to install. 10-15 minute job max. My 93, 114,000 miles, idles a little rough also, I think it is inherent of these V6's.