First startup 223. Timing?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 892
Likes: 85
From: Western Massachusetts
First startup 223. Timing?
Getting ready to start my rebuilt 223 for the first time. How do I set initial timing? Everything I read says DON'T idle for 20 minutes. The book says set timing at 3-4 degrees BTDC at idle with the vacuum line disconnected, then check advance at higher RPMs and adjust from there. You can't do both!
Thank you
Bob
Thank you
Bob
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
You just get #1 cyl to TDC, rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. Adjust till it starts. Bring it up to 2000rpm for 20 minutes to break in cam. Not the time to fool with tuning. Just as long as it's running.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 892
Likes: 85
From: Western Massachusetts
No Start. I am bummed. Got a couple back fires out of the carb. Thats it.
Rechecked:
All my wiring - OK
Valve / piston timing vs distributor rotor position - it is OK. I tried slowly rotating the distributor while cranking. No Difference.
Checked point gap again - OK
Added a ground from the distributor to the block.
Found & tightened a loose vacuum plug on the intake manifold.
The carb is rebuilt. I can see the accelerator pump adding gas when opening the gas.
Battery spins it over fast.
All electrical components are new, distributor (rebuilt), coil, solenoid, plugs, wires.
Things I am wondering about:
Spark is seemingly weak when I inset a screw driver in a plug wire and watch it jump to the plug. What might cause this? A bad coil? A bad condener? The plug wires are the new modern type,good quality. maybe I need old solid conductor type?
Maybe the carb is off? The glass bowl is showing about 3/4 full. The book talks about using a dummy bowl & tools to set the fuel/ float level. Doesn't say approx how full the bowel needs to be. I set it according to directions during the rebuild.
I am bummed.
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Rechecked:
All my wiring - OK
Valve / piston timing vs distributor rotor position - it is OK. I tried slowly rotating the distributor while cranking. No Difference.
Checked point gap again - OK
Added a ground from the distributor to the block.
Found & tightened a loose vacuum plug on the intake manifold.
The carb is rebuilt. I can see the accelerator pump adding gas when opening the gas.
Battery spins it over fast.
All electrical components are new, distributor (rebuilt), coil, solenoid, plugs, wires.
Things I am wondering about:
Spark is seemingly weak when I inset a screw driver in a plug wire and watch it jump to the plug. What might cause this? A bad coil? A bad condener? The plug wires are the new modern type,good quality. maybe I need old solid conductor type?
Maybe the carb is off? The glass bowl is showing about 3/4 full. The book talks about using a dummy bowl & tools to set the fuel/ float level. Doesn't say approx how full the bowel needs to be. I set it according to directions during the rebuild.
I am bummed.
<!-- / message -->
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 708
Likes: 1
Are you just holding the screw driver by itself? Doesn't what you short the plug wire with to test spark also have to be grounded to the block?
Also, you did make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke? As in stick your thumb in the spark plug hole and have someone turn the dampener bolt and feel for compression as the timing mark approaches TDC.
Also, you did make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke? As in stick your thumb in the spark plug hole and have someone turn the dampener bolt and feel for compression as the timing mark approaches TDC.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 892
Likes: 85
From: Western Massachusetts
Put the screw driver in the plug wire. Held it close to the plug. The plug was still in the head.
Made sure the #1 cylinder was on the compression stroke using your method. Rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. Both valves closed at TDC.
Made sure the #1 cylinder was on the compression stroke using your method. Rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. Both valves closed at TDC.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 892
Likes: 85
From: Western Massachusetts
Yes, the distributor is out of the box rebuilt with points, condenser. New 12V internal resistor coil, wires, plugs, starter, battery, ignition switch, wiring, solenoid, battery cables, grounded by two cables.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 892
Likes: 85
From: Western Massachusetts
It started and I was a happy camper. Not sure what was wrong. I was one of 3 things.
1. I moved the distributor 1 tooth so I could rotate it further. The vacuum advance hits the block while turning the distributor in that direction.
2. My temporary throttle wasn't setting the carb all the way closed and I may have been flooding it.
3. I bought and installed another new condenser.
I think it was the throttle because when I closed it by hand it started. The RPMs would not come up right away. I think it was burning off flooded gas. Once it did that I brought it up to 2000 RPMs for 20 min. Sounds real nice. Very smooth. I think the extra money I paid the machine shop to balance the rotating assembly was worth it. Now on to re-torquing the head, checking valve lash, setting the timing and fixing the oil leaks!
1. I moved the distributor 1 tooth so I could rotate it further. The vacuum advance hits the block while turning the distributor in that direction.
2. My temporary throttle wasn't setting the carb all the way closed and I may have been flooding it.
3. I bought and installed another new condenser.
I think it was the throttle because when I closed it by hand it started. The RPMs would not come up right away. I think it was burning off flooded gas. Once it did that I brought it up to 2000 RPMs for 20 min. Sounds real nice. Very smooth. I think the extra money I paid the machine shop to balance the rotating assembly was worth it. Now on to re-torquing the head, checking valve lash, setting the timing and fixing the oil leaks!
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