1992 FORD AEROSTAR V6 3.0

Ok Here problem my Coolant Temperature gauge on my
van reading too cool.It hardly gets past the frist mark of normal
then back down it go,s.The heater is putting out good heat.
new thermostat from napa
Flush radiator
now im going to try putting a new temperature sensor
in tomorrow.
I would love any help

 

Yeah, I noticed mine doing the same thing, until I replaced the temp sensor... the contact for the lead gets rusty... and will sometimes not make continuous contact...

I replaced the Temp sending unit too, since they are together, and for like $20 More, since I was already there, I figured what the heck... The sending unit is actually more important, since that is what tells the computer what the temp of the engine is, so it can make fuel/air adjustments...

I put a fail safe t-stat in mine... I know many on here like Motorcraft or stant, but I like the idea that if it fails, it will fail open... it may not last as long, but I have had them fail closed, and it's not fun to watch...

My heats up now to about 1/2 way on the gauge, and then the t-stat opens, so it falls to about the O in Normal, does that a couple of times, until the coolant is closer in temp... it usually stays 1/3 on the gauge, right at the r in the word normal, but it does fluctuate as I drive (smaller amounts the longer it's running)

One thing too... check for air in the system...

early in the day, before you run it for the first time (when engine is cold) open Rad Cap... top off if not to very top... repeat this for a few times...

be sure you use a 192 degree T-stat... which is the OEM temp for the 3.0, and I think the 4 as well. but I have found that even though some are marked the same, they tend to open at slightly different temps... you could check it with a pot of water on the stove and a therm, but if you get one that is marked 192, it should be fully open by 195 degrees.

just my 2 cents...
Bob

 

I have seen out of the box bad thermos, so I would not rule that out (expecially for NAPA brand.)

That is why most of us recomend Motorcraft or Stant Thermos.

As for the Temp and PCM sensor, i replace both when I replace the Thermo, they are wear items, and sense you are already there, go for it.

 

yep i just called the part house asking about the parts.
I am going to replace the tem sensor & the sender switch to.
JUST to make sure lol but dont know what t-stat is but i will ask for sure
thanks for the help

 

tstat = Thermostat... I'd pull it, and do the hot water check... but you need a good baking therm to test it, to see if it is opening at 192 degrees.... it's kind cool to watch actually...

hey nighthawk... you and 96 seem to hate the fail safes... any personal stories? should I get a Motorcraft for any particular reason? (and I just got the housing all nice and sealed too! :-))

 

one other thing...

Replacing the Rad cap is not a bad idea BUT - be sure to get one that is rated for the pressure of your system - that is key

Ciao

 

don't hate Fail-Safes...just no experience with them...not for sale around here...hv read web site...interesting but have not caught on widely in DIY market...
what auto stores carry in Pacific NW?

failed radiator caps ruin more Aero heads and vacations for a $5 part

don't pull the new theromstat you have in....just let us know how it works and when you change it out how it looks and what temp it is opening at then

 

Use Motorcraft thermostat and sending unit, other sending unit have plastic (as I have read with these gentlemen) and put some new green goo in. My Aero did the same thing, now it's perfectly in the middle and runs great.

L8R

Aaron
Nappers

 

LOL GREEN GOO antifreeze RIGHT

 

I went and put temp sender switch in
temp sensor in
drove it for about 2hr trip. Never got past the
middle line of normal.
That with heater on and off and AC. on
Hey guys thanks for the fast help
now to the brakes

 

Brakes are easy, I put (well, my brother in-law did) new calipers, pads and wheel bearings and rotors. depending on miles of your Aero, put new bearings or for sure grease them (we used synthetic grease). the pin for the calipers is tricky but pretty easy kinda like a roll pin but squareish. You can gravity bleed the brakes (on 3 ton jacks on a slight hill of driveway), suck old fluid out of resevoir, put new (I use synthetic) fluid in her, bleed until clean fluid comes out (we cracked all of the bleeding valves), worked like a charm, that was almost 2 years ago and no warpage or problems, still stops on a dime. No worries with rear ABS either (he said anyway, he is ASE brake guy, handy to have around ) brakes are better than when new.

hope it helps ya, I've said it before, these guys on this forum (although need a life "Aero's in movies???? LOL ) know their Aero's and how they tick and can tell you what to do to fix it. I find myself looking on this site constantly so I need a life too I guess. LOL. Nascar, FTE, and FSC (for the Yukon) and yahoo to play text twist till my brain goes numb.

L8R

Aaron
Nappers