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I think you are going to have to drop the pan and take a look at the bearings. If the crank isn't damaged, you can roll in a new set and be on your way. However, depending on how hot the engine got, you may have damaged the pistons and cylinder walls. When pistons heat up, they expand. When they expand too much, they scrape/gouge the cylinder walls. From then on you tend to burn oil. Good luck.
At this point, you have nothing to loose. Go ahead and run it through, but I wouldn't get my hopes up. What engine do you have? I have an almost new, 19,000 original miles, 300 I6 out of a 91 F-150. It's just been sitting around the shop for the last few years.
The only thing SeaFoam helps when you buy is the manufactures profits.
Added in the oil to knock sludge loose and grind up bearings, in the intake tract to break carbon loose in the intake and combustion chambers to score the cylinder walls and pistons. Smokes like hell for miles to get you a smog fit it citation as well destroys cats, muffler shops like cat replacements, high profit items. A motor with proper maintenance and driven hard time to time need no additives. Now if you own a Rover like I do their forum use SeaFoam every 1000 miles WTF for I don't know maybe looking or creating problems.
Far as Foam for rod knock your wasting your money and their profit again.
As you see i'm not additive user and reasons posted above. JMO's
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Nice truck Dawn! Does yours have an oil pressure gauge or light that works? A sudden decline in oil presure is the news that you don't want to hear.
There are less dramatic ways to clean out deposits. Plain old carb/injector cleaner for the fuel system and combustion chambers; cheap is good enough.
Don't bother with solvents like Sea-Foam in the oil, especially in a high mileage motor. Like Beamer Nut said, best thing you can do to clean up is change the oil and go for a long drive. Some of the people in the FE forum really like diesel rated oil for the additives.
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